Grandpa’s M37
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Start there. Also check to ensure no burrs on the inner cable. Also check to ensure the ends are secure on the cable and not loose.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
Re: Grandpa’s M37
That worked well! The speedo flutters a bit +_ 2 mph but not like it was.
M37
YEAR: 1954
YEAR: 1954
Re: Grandpa’s M37
+/- 2 mph is nothing for this trucks. Congrats. 

Sebastian
(sorry, I only speak in METRIC)
(sorry, I only speak in METRIC)
Re: Grandpa’s M37
This works for now, but has anyone figured out the right tips you can put on civy wires?
M37
YEAR: 1954
YEAR: 1954
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Can you change the shifter shaft seals with the transfer case in the truck? That’s my biggest leak after the front pinion seal (why didn’t I change it beforehand?!?!?!)
M37
YEAR: 1954
YEAR: 1954
Re: Grandpa’s M37
It can be done, but it is a lot of jockeying tools around to remove them.
I drill 2 small holes along the front edge of the seal, 180deg apart.
Use a couple #8 or so sheet metal screws to pull the seal out with a small crowbar.
Then use a drill with a wire brush or some of that abrasive ribbon for soldering pipe to remove any rust/rough spots on the fully extended shafts .
Take a 6"piece of pipe that will slip over the shaft and drive the new seals in with a small hammer, using a bit of sealant on the seal rims first.
Done.
Keep in mind, synthetic gear oil will let the transfer run quieter & cooler, but it will find the smallest space to leak more than regular gear oil.
PoW
I drill 2 small holes along the front edge of the seal, 180deg apart.
Use a couple #8 or so sheet metal screws to pull the seal out with a small crowbar.
Then use a drill with a wire brush or some of that abrasive ribbon for soldering pipe to remove any rust/rough spots on the fully extended shafts .
Take a 6"piece of pipe that will slip over the shaft and drive the new seals in with a small hammer, using a bit of sealant on the seal rims first.
Done.
Keep in mind, synthetic gear oil will let the transfer run quieter & cooler, but it will find the smallest space to leak more than regular gear oil.
PoW
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Outstanding, looks great!
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Sigh.... I wish my wheel arches were that clean
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Thanks. There is a ton of hammering in those. I think I tore it down just in time to stop the rust worms.
M37
YEAR: 1954
YEAR: 1954
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Looks like it's coming out of the producing plant right now! 

Sebastian
(sorry, I only speak in METRIC)
(sorry, I only speak in METRIC)
Re: Grandpa’s M37
Took a 6 mile trip to the gas station this am. First trip in traffic. Ran fine. Didn’t make too many people mad by my slowness. Pulled the #1 plug looks ok.
M37
YEAR: 1954
YEAR: 1954
Re: Grandpa’s M37
"reading" plugs is somewhat of a lost art. A few minutes of idle can really soot up a plug, One thing we can look for is a very overheated plug, or broken ceramic or bent/melted electrodes. When I pull my plugs for any reason, I use mew copper compression washers, I get them in various thickness from Jegs, used for "indexing" spark plugs. Plus anti seize and use a good torque wrench. Important to use the proper heat range too. I think "heat range" actually refers to the ceramic insulator, a bit longer to project more into the combustion chamber to burn off deposits better, ie, a hot plug, and for a cold plug, a shorter insulator.
hal
hal