the $3000 Fuel Filter

[NAM VET]

I has been a saga the past year. To begin this story, last spring my truck began to stumble and hesitate within a mile or so of leaving home. Eventualy, I had my truck flat bedded home 5 times. First thought it was a failing coil, so got pretty fast at puling my distributor out, different Coils, damaged a Pertronix, replaced one. Or was it two? Then figured out that the prior owner had put a tiny lawn mower filter on a rubber hose for an in-tank fuel filter. Put in a a new SS OEM one. Still stumble, then decided the lack of fuel flow damaged m 24V Facet, so replaced that, I think the third or forth Facet I have had on my truck, but I think some were actually working fine. Then, last summer, moved a hundred miles to near Columbia, SC, and since I just didn't have time to deal with an unreliable truck, for $400 had flat bedded to our new home, where I installed another Facet.

I now keep my truck in a hanger with other military vehicles, and still, after maybe 3 or 4 miles, again, hesitation. I thought my carb and fuel lines were just getting hot, percolating fuel, so re-did my engine compartment' fuel lines, expensive aircraft grade hose protection. Still, hesitating after a couple of miles.

So decided to check and replace my rear metal fuel filter, thinking it may be clogged with condensation water. So this morning, pulled off the metal small canister fuel filter, and dumped its contents into a small pan to inspect it. It was full of small bits of debris, but no water,. I tried to blow thru the filter, and it is totally obstructed, both directions.

So put in a plastic Wix part 33022, for my 5/16 fuel lines. I preferred the metal filters, because I can pull them off my rubber fuel lines, whereas the Wix have a sharp ridge on the end nipples, such that they cut into the fuel line, and once clamped, cannot be pulled off, requiring the fuel line to be cut and spliced in. I filed off most of the nipples' sharp nibs, so that I can remove and replace them in the future.

I had a stuck valve a year ago, under a spark plug, so tapped on the valve, making it work again, but the engine builder suggested I use a top end lubricant /cleaner to avoid this in the future. (New valves and valve guides.)

After the gas in the small pan evaporated, there was a semi-congealed wax or oil on the bottom to the pan.

In summary, while my problem has been partly due to a small in-tank clogged filter, my excessive use of an oil based fuel lubricant/cleaner resulted in clogging of the paper in my filter, nearly totally obstructing my pump's ability to send fuel forward. Sort of like the engine's oil bath air cleaner.

Went for a test, and my truck since again had much more power than I was experiencing.

Here is pic of my pump/filter, except now I have a clear Wix 33032 filter there. I can replace it when necessary in a few minutes.

My more recent stumble was due to excessive use of the fuel lube/cleaner, obstructing the paper filter media in the small metal canister. I just didn't expect the problem this time to be so simple and cheap to remedy. Hal

[NAM VET]

here, with the obstructed metal canister filter. Clear Wix now. hal

[NAM VET]

just tried to buy more of the above Wix plastic case filters, but the Wix 33032 is now a Wix metal canister. So looking around, found lots of inexpensive similar for my 5/16 fuel lines, but many off Amazon are "no name", and want to use filter from Name Brand companies, even if made in China, perhaps better quality control. NAPA Gold is very similar, as are a Baldwin filter. Fram and others make plastic 5/16 filters, but the Wix 33032 is now metal, due to California laws, apparently. Hal

[NAM VET]

Looks like Wix chanter their part number and this looks to be the same but now under a different Wix part number, see:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/wi ... wix0/33002

[Argie1978]

Hi Hal.
Gonna keep the fingers crossed for you. Hope this is the last time you suffer from this.
I will install a similar plastic filter right next to the pump in the engine bay. And I've procured this one (attached) for the rear, to be placed right out from the tank. It will be the first barrier helping me during the first weeks of running as I'm expecting a lot crap coming out from the tank + pickup.
Now, back to the plastic little filters I've never had problems managing them when disconnecting from rubber lines. I get your point on those edges but I think I got lucky so far.

[NAM VET]

I haver searched for some time for a big canister fuel filter, most of the fuel filters are small and of limited capacity, for modern, supposedly clean fuel systems. But I just can't find a place back inside the frame rails to put one, just no room. If my fresh filters, and running my tank near empty, and using less "lubricant/cleaner" in the fuel seems to solve my vexing problem, I will just leave well enough alone. I have thought about putting a canister filter somewhere in the engine compartment, plenty of room there. But that would let "junk" be pushed all the way forward in my fuel lines, before it got to the front canister, not sure I want to do that. But that will be my next strep if necessary. I don't off road anymore, but still don't want to have a fuel canister/filter system hanging down below my frame. I may also look into retro fitting a real OEM filter, like the ones on the earlier trucks, mounted on the voltage regulator bracket, assuming suitable modern filters are available for it. Best wishes... Hal

[Rdinatal]

I have the early filter mounted on the firewall bracket. From what I've seen the filter element is primitive. I'll be looking for a marine filter/water separator when I finally get to that area.

In the meanwhile I had this hanging around from my tractor. Looks like it will fit in the frame.

Fuel Filter Assembly https://a.co/d/fBA9uEh

[Elwood]

I'll be looking for a marine filter/water separator when I finally get to that area.

This is the filter I'm using: Racor 120R-RAC-02

120R-RAC-02.jpeg (24.4 KiB) Viewed 7176 times

https://www.parker.com/static_content/p ... AC-02).pdf

[Argie1978]

Let me get it straight, the water separator is intended for using with E10-type gasoline?
For what I've read in boat forums it is not THAT effective.
But maybe I'm wrong.

[Rdinatal]

While it won't separate the ethanol in E-10 it will separate any water already there. Once in the receptacle it can be drained off or discarded when the filter can is replaced.

[Elwood]

I try to avoid any ethanol blend gasoline in my old vehicles, so the Racor unit is just for separating water. I was stranded once in my Studebaker when the accumulated water in the tank made it to the fuel pump and froze on a winter day here in Michigan. Don't care to repeat that experience.

[NAM VET]

I am researching fuel filters, and the difference between a simple filter and one capable of "separating " water from fuel. But I think there is a difference in water issues between ethanol blends, and non-ethanol gas. I suspect water in an alcohol blend is "dissolved" or something like that in the ethanol, whereas in a non-ethanol fuel, it remains separate, and being heavier than fuel, will tend to remain as water in the lower parts of fuel system. And in our fuel tanks, promoting rust on the tank's bottom.

I only use non-ethanol in my truck for good reasons. Which can exacerbate water issues, as the water remains separate from the actual fuel . And our tanks can accumulate condensation water. And after some hours of internet search, I am finding that locating an appropriate lager filter/remote mount and finding a safe place to install it is a challenge.

I am finding that the thread size and pitch of the various filter's inlet and what is available on the actual mount is a complex thing. I want to keep gas away from my engine compartment, and if under my truck at less risk of tearing it off should I need to be off road. And finding a place and way to attach the filter mount somewhere under my truck is a challenge. I have found I have almost NO water now in my tank to deal with.

I have not yet matched a mount's thread, filter thread and length and diameter and micron filter for this project. The easiest thing to do is to just keep on eye on my new plastic filter, and carry spares. But in my truck's restoration over the past 6 years, I have always tried to do things so I will never have to "deal" with something ever again. Once and done...

I am going out to my truck and see where I can at least attach a filter mount and then continue my search for a suitable filter. And I will use less "top cylinder lubricant/cleaner'" which prematurely clogs a small micron paper filter media, too.

I keep a log on my truck's maintenance and modifications, and have now started writing on filters the date and mileage when installed, for information as to their suitability and consumption. Hal

[John Mc]

Straight gas will suspend/dissolve a tiny amount of water before water starts settling out. Ethanol blends will hold a bit more, but when it goes beyond a certain point, the ethanol combines with the water and settles out (a process known as "phase separation"). The ethanol/water blend is corrosive - more so than just straight water. A water separating filter will separate either water from straight gas or the water/ethanol that has already phase separated from E10 gas. I'm not sure whether it will separate water that is suspended/dissolved in E10 gas. I know those filters will not separate the straight ethanol from E10 gas.

[mikkelborg]

I haver searched for some time for a big canister fuel filter, most of the fuel filters are small and of limited capacity, for modern, supposedly clean fuel systems. But I just can't find a place back inside the frame rails to put one, just no room. ... ...I don't off road anymore, but still don't want to have a fuel canister/filter system hanging down below my frame.

The previous owner of my truck came up with a decent solution. They used a Napa 4770 filter head and a Napa 3528 fuel filter on the drivers side mounted to the underside of the bed with a simple piece of angle iron. The bottom of the filter finishes just above the bottom of the frame rail, it is easy to change and the filter is large, lots of dirt and water capacity. If you want to spend a few extra dollars, 'water separating' filters are readily available, it's a common 1-14 threaded filter head. I haven't had to change mine in ten years (11,000 miles) running regular pump gas (2-10% ethanol here in Washington). I run a stock fuel pump and pull through this filter no problem. I also have taken my M through rocks, over logs, skidded the frame on a bolder or two and never had an issue with the filter catching anything.