Winter is winding down, this board is kinda slow but I have a question. (I had a more provocative subject line but toned it down. )
Given the choice would you rather have the soft canvas top or the hardtop, either the original or CCKW version?
Since I am working on restoring my M37 I have wondered what the pros and cons are of each top. (I did search for this but didn’t find a compare.)
I understand you folks that get the frozen weather for months would prefer the hardtop with a cab heater when you are out enjoying the tundra. But for example, in Florida would you burn up during the summer in the hardtop?
I had a CCKW top on.my 1st M37. It made the interior more noisy, fit poorly, and I think I had to roll the windows down slightly to open the doors.
I have used canvas for last decade and plan to keep using it in summer/parades. I like the look and ease to go topless. However, I picked up an artic top off CL that I plan to use next winter. The artic top is much nicer than the CCKW top.
Had a very well made and form fitting custom metal top on mine when i bought it. Was VERY noisy and hot in the cab. Took 3 strong guys to remove and reinstall it.
I found a guy putting an M37 body on a modern chassis with AC. I swapped my hardtop for all his hardware for the soft top and his axles. I love the canvas top even though i have to replace it every 3 years. I made patterns and cut out a few sets of panels to sew up when the sun rots the current top.
I thought I wanted a hard top, but after driving a friends truck with one I prefer the versatility of the soft top. Make sure the rear "window" can be opened up, this is great with the front "safari" widows when it gets hot.
I've run the canvas top year-round and it's 11 years old and still serviceable. I did pick up a CCKW top years ago that I still have but never installed. I just dig the military look and smell of the canvas top and associated framework, although I'm tempted to go topless for a bit this Spring. The trouble is that Spring doesn't last long in Utah and I'll need the shade of the top once it starts cooking toward 90 degrees and beyond....
Gary
Interesting question. My truck came with an arctic top as it was a USAF truck. I've been leaning towards having the hard top as it has a sliding back window that can be open for air flow and I've also been thinking of running without doors during the summer months. But, my top is in rough shape, a bullet hole where bubba shot at the truck etc. so I'm not sure what I will be doing and I have been going back and forth as to yeah or nay on it. I like the idea of being warm and dry in the early spring, late fall and if I have to drive it in the winter. The stock arctic top is better than the CCKW top.
In what way, Joe?
I've never seen the Arctic top so I'm just fact-finding here in case we move to Montana (yep, might happen in a couple of years)-I might need "the best" hardtop for the harsh Winters. I currently have a CCKW top that needs some screw holes welded up, and a new piece of window glass. I can't see spending a Grand for the VPW top.
Thanks in advance,
Gary
my early double skin canadian hard top is stuffed with rock wool and a layer of aluminized bubble wrap. it stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. it does reverberate a bit of sound but its much louder with the windows open. I can remove the roof by myself but it is easier to re install with two.
I have helped a friend with his soft top and that pinch on the top of the windshield is a bear. If you soft top guys want to fold down your windshield what is the procedure ? it seams like way more work than the HT
.............................. use it ...............
The canvas is removed, folded and stowed away. The removal of the top, does require a firm and steady tug, I've done it twice in 10 years, topless as I type.
My canvas welting moves easily in and out due to the pre-work I did on the channel when I got the top. Since the channel track was so mis-aligned with dents and such along it's length, I bought a 3/8 steel rod 6 feet long, ground one end to a slow-tapered point, then fed, nudged and hammered it all the way through then again with the hammer, reshaped the channel back to being round along its length, then closing up the small slit on the channel bottom making it just open enough to accommodate the welting. That made inserting and feeding the welt through it a whole lot easier.
Gary
I do the removal and installation alone. Lay the canvas inside up at tge base of the windshield. Stand in the cab and feed and pull the canvas through the channel. My armspan is wider than the frame width so it is easy. If yours is stiff, a careful application of SailKote or silicone lube will make it breeze through.
And as of this weekend, top of and windshield down. Full cargo covers on. Looks very WWII like this.
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