I'm about ready to junk it

Wes · Post by **Wes** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:41 pm

I have a 52 M37. I havn't had it running good in about 2 years. It all started when I accedentally left the ignition switch on. Among other things it cooked the points and coil. After replacing all the ignition parts and getting desperate, I finally got it running by replacing the entire ignitor unit. Then it happened again. I was trying to fix the wireing to a headlight and the switch stayed on again. I replaced the coil, condensor, points, cap rotor plugs. I have taken off the ignitor cover so many times I want to screem. I have good spark at the points and made sure the ginition is in the right order. When i turn it over it just backfires LOUD. I tried the adjusting the timming. left of center it backfires, right nothing. One time it would only start if the cover screws were about 5 turns loose. when I tightened the it died. Some one tell me what thats about. Now it won't start at all. I'm really fed up with this truck. I love this truck and want to keep it original but the waterproof ignition system is a serious pain in the ass to work on. Can any one offer me some encoragement and advice?

Paul (in NH) · Post by **Paul (in NH)** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:32 pm

Will it run if you loosen those screws again? Maybe you are either shorting something else or somehow binding something with the cover on tight. You did not pull the distributor out and somehow get it back in in the wrong position did you?

k8icu · Post by **k8icu** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:38 pm

I was wondering that myself that maybe you've got it 180 out of phase. If it would run with the screw loose like that seems to tell me that you don't have something seated right and therefor it shorts our or doesn't make contact properly when tighten up.

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:29 am

Because of the offset tang on the distributor shaft, it's almost impossible to install it 180 degrees out of phase. I say "almost" impossible because if there's a wrong way, someone will find it.

If you were getting spark at the points, things were looking pretty good. Is it possible that, after setting the points, you didn't get the screw that holds the adjustable arm tight enough and it vibrated loose causing the point gap to widen?

What's the condition of the cap and rotor? Did you inadvertently damage either one?

Did you install a new condensor? If not the old one could have gone bad.

Don't give up and junk it just yet! If it was "running when parked," it will run again. You just have to isolate the problem before you try to fix it. This can be very frustrating, I know, but hang in there! You'll get it going again.

k8icu · Post by **k8icu** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:04 am

There was a post not to long ago about electronic ignitions. Maybe you should look into changing over to that. I had a similar problem with my 151. (as well as the army did) and I fixed my problem by switching to an electronic ignition and haven't looked back.

Here's the post:
viewtopic.php?t=791

I looked at the one being offered by M Serries and it looks like a slick unit. Might be more than one is willing to spend, but for the peace of mind that comes with it...it might be worth it.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:57 am

Don't give up Wes! Check everything one at a time:
Distributor seated properly?
Rotor seated properly?
Points gapped properly?
Condenser good?
Coil good?
Spark plug wires firing order routed in concert with the correct rotation of the distributor? (I got backfiring in an old Ford because I routed the wires for a clock-wise distributor rotation versus counter-clockwise)
Timing properly set?
Getting fuel to the carb?
Compression ok?

If yes to all, it should run. Perhaps another forum member in your area can give you a hand? Keep us posted and don't let it whip you-you'll get it resolved!
Gary

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 6:37 am

Lifer - my son installed our dist shaft 180 degree out of phase - so yes it can be done. He pulled ours out was doing some work and 5 minutes later put in right back in-backwards. The vehicle went from runnning to backfire/no fire in a blink.

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:23 am

Like I said..."if there's a way, someone will find it!"

How long did it take you to discover what had happened and fix it?

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 2:59 pm

Wes wrote:I have a 52 M37. I havn't had it running good in about 2 years. It all started when I accedentally left the ignition switch on. Among other things it cooked the points and coil. After replacing all the ignition parts and getting desperate, I finally got it running by replacing the entire ignitor unit. Then it happened again. I was trying to fix the wireing to a headlight and the switch stayed on again. I replaced the coil, condensor, points, cap rotor plugs. I have taken off the ignitor cover so many times I want to screem. I have good spark at the points and made sure the ginition is in the right order. When i turn it over it just backfires LOUD. I tried the adjusting the timming. left of center it backfires, right nothing. One time it would only start if the cover screws were about 5 turns loose. when I tightened the it died. Some one tell me what thats about. Now it won't start at all. I'm really fed up with this truck. I love this truck and want to keep it original but the waterproof ignition system is a serious pain in the ass to work on. Can any one offer me some encoragement and advice?

Give me a call 704-474-4683, I'll be happy to help you figure it out, by the way, the military ignition system is about as simple as it gets & very reliable.

I'm about ready to junk it

I'm about ready to junk it

ideas

Re: I'm about ready to junk it