vapor lock?

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:51 am

Put in a new 5/16 " steel gas line. Jesus Christ, what a job ! And as part of the tearout I found lots of potential air leaks and restrictions too. Like where the original fuel filter used to be, and was bypassed with all kinds of soft hose . So when the installation was finished, it went like this: All new inverted couplings tight? Yes. Tighter than hell. Fitting tight at the tank? Yes ! Stainless clamps tight on the new 5/16" flex gas lines to the fuel pump? Yes . Remove the oil bath air cleaner, and Hard Start can ready to spray into open carb air tube, and starter switch jumper ready ? ( I did this alone, guys) ...Yes to all . Crank, spray, crank, spray. varuum ! She started and in a few moments was running herself on gas! I also noticed an immediate difference in the quickness with which the engine reved up. No sluggishness. How wonderfull, I saud, after 6 hours of work. Hmmm, what;s that smoke I see over by the fuel pump...AAhhhh! Shut the engine off, the spare pump I put on yesterday is leaking and pouring gas all over the header! WEll troopers, I am left with a good gas line for sure, which was much needed, and now I e-mail Big John from Midwest to send me a pump, and the correct one too. MIssed the Air Show at Republic Airport today, but this will be continued...

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:54 pm

It never fails! Ya fix one thing and the next weak link shows up immediately! Glad to hear you got your original problem taken care of, though. The fuel pump will be easy compared to the job you just did.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:55 pm

I have decided, according to unconventional wisdom, and by the advise of KNATTRASS, that iether the new fuel pump will make this truck run, or I will uncover a momento brought back from Fort Polk landmine detection school, a 1 pound bar of C-4. I will attach this to the undernieth of the engine compartment, insert the blasting cap, stand back at a safe distance, read a passage from The Gospel of Mathew, and blow tis goddam truck all the way to Irac...........

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:20 am

Good morning to All! I've been watching this subject with much interest, trying to resolve my fuel/carb issues mentioned in another post, and similar to the described problems here, so I feel the need to share this since there is so much good info (as always) on this forum. Sorry it's lengthy but might help some of our friends here who are having similar issues.

Anyway, my system is 12V, to include an electric fuel pump. The pump was plumbed just ahead of the carb with an in-line filter just ahead of the pump. I couldn't get consistent fuel levels in the carb-too much one moment, starving the next. The carb came from John at Midwest so I know it's good (oh we love these gremlins huh)? The pump has a good ground so I don't suspect trouble there either. Anyway, I finally recalled an old article that advised to place the fuel pump as close to the tank as possible with a filter between the tank and pump, because most electric fuel pumps are designed to be "pushers" of the fuel, not "pullers", so I decided to do the relocation this past weekend. After relocation, I also pulled the carb, ensured the intake manifold was dry, then went through the carb, cleaning out a bit of grit that had accumulated in the bottom of the bowl (I also removed the jet and cleaned underneath it after seeing the grit), reset the float level to specs, then installed the carb. I routed the fuel line into a clear bottle, applied voltage to clear the air out of the fuel line, then attached the fuel line to the carb. Turned the key and hit the starter-varoom! The truck started right up and idled contently while I checked for leaks and adjusted the fuel mixture screw (by ear, for us old-timers in the group)! It continued to run like new-no surging, sputtering, flooding so I took it for a lap around my apartment complex and it ran just fine. What a relief to have finally solved this problem-the fact that the fuel pump has to push fuel the length of the truck to get it to the carb seems to keep the fuel volume regulated, and consistent. My only regret is that I didn't add a kill switch for the pump-an easy mod down the road....

Next-time to install the Painless wiring harness!
Gary

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:30 am

hello there fellow fuel line troublshooter. I read your post with interest, as I have one last card up my sleve in case what Iv'e already done don't work out, and but before I use the "C-4 option." which is an electric fuel pump. Does yours have a regulator on it? I read you had trouble with fuel overfeed and underfeed. I bought a separate regulator having a range of 2 PSIG to 7 PSIG, where the unregulated fuel pump outlet is 7 PSIG. There is also provision for a pressure guage on the regulator so that I can adjust accurately to about 5.5 PSIG, if I recall what the manual says the carb wants. Anyway, once Big John sends the fuel pump, I hope I will be all finished with this issue, and can finally proceed to , yes, a carb adjustment !

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:40 am

Peter/Gary - looks like we got this topic covered from east coast to west coast. Getting an electric pump close to the source is a must - today's vehicles have them in the fuel tank! You MUST install a oil pressure switch or you are asking for BIG trouble. You want to make sure that the engine is running and call for fuel versus pumping fuel full time key on. The Balkamp switch is around $30 - cheap insurance to avoid a big time fire on board.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:49 am

Thank You KNATTRASS, And I guess the oil pressure switch serves to tell the fuel pump that the engine is running before the fuel pump begins to deliver ( forgive me, but as you know I'm from long island) But where do i install this oilpressure switch? ...

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:46 am

Peter -

The engine is that hot smelly thingie under that sheetmetal outhouse door do-dad in front of the truck..... now for Gary.....

Looking at the photo - (right to left) is the female coupling off the oil psi sender that is mounted to the oil filler neck. You remove the coupling, install a Tee, and then reinstall the oil sender. The Balkamp switch needed a bushing from 5/8" to 3/8" (if I recall).

You can see that the oil psi switch is a simple 2 pole connection. My circuit ran the original IGN wire to a keyed switch under the dash. From the keyed ign to the oil psi switch(Balkamp) on the engine. From the oil psi switch all the way back to the fuel pump. That way, you need to have the ign key "on" and the engine cranking to generate oil pressure to close the fuel pump circuit. In accident, the key may still be "on" but the fuel pump would be stopped. I also installed a momentary push button sealed switch that connected to the "hot" side of the ign switch, that was wired directly to the fuel pump. This way, with the key "on", the push button provided an electrical priming action prior to cranking. Hope this helps and Charles provided me the idea back when.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:04 pm

Good info all the way around~! Peter, my electric pump came with the truck and appears to be "self-regulated" meaning that the pump stops pumping when the card float is up, then feeds more as the float lowers, asking for more fuel.

Knattrass, yes I have an OPS but that photo sure helps! I'll have to make that modification so no fuel flows when no oil flows.

BTW-I know your neck of the woods fairly well, my wife of 25 years is from Mount Clemens.
Gary

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:05 pm

Gary, Isn't KNATTRASS helpful? I suggest you enjoy him while you can , because , unlike you mountian boys out midwest, we here in the northeast still live by the Fued, ( remeber the picture Josie Wells? ) That was a true story based what happened when a midwest fellow uttered " fighting words" to a long islander.....

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:42 pm

"Mountain" boys in the midwest? Where? I been living here for 60 years and ain't seen no mountains 'round here yet! We got lots of hicks and hayseeds, and we got a few rednecks, but we ain't got no "mountain" boys.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:51 pm

Lifer, You're right ! And as for you KNATTRASS, that means you are living in the wrong part of town, no wonder you hide under your truck !

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:44 am

Jumping right to the heart of the matter, having recieved and installed the correct fuel pump from Big John Midwest. to include a 0 - 15 PSIG pump discharge guage clearly showing it's lower pressure range, I put the ignition key in and turned : crank, crank, craank, craaank, curaaaank, ......It does take a moment to get the fuel thru the new lines and filter, right? Off comes the oil bath air cleaner, and with my super volitile start fluid Sprayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy, (till it's all empty ) Once again, crank, VAAAROOOOOOM...iT STARTED ! iT'S RUNNING ! Put the C-4 away Kilroy. And there's no gas leaks either ! The pressure guage says 4.5 PSIG. I guess that's good enough. Yes, Big John, I will install that heat shield you sold me now that I have the right pump installed. Took it for a ride, what a pleasure. I'm alive again. And now to celebrate: Buy those additional Snap -On wrenches I wanted, schedule my vehicle in the Jukly 4th Parade, why I'm so happy I think I'll even forgive KNATTRASS...

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:55 am

Way to go Peter! That's why we don't give up-the feeling is awesome once we conquer the problem and get it back to life!
Congrats again!
Gary