New Owner and I Already Broke It!

[NCM]

Thanks for the continued input everyone. In the past day I've done the following

-drained the gas tank; looked clean
- checked the oil; the level doesn't seem high and it doesn't smell of gas
- drove around with the gas cap off to check for venting issues; still died on me
- pulled the rotor cap off and checked the coil resistance. Primary is 6.6 ohms. All good. Secondary was 10k ohm, which is considerably less than the 14k-20k guideline. Does this indicate that my coil is going bad?

[Kaegi]

one way to check a coil also is to see if the bottom or the sides are bulging out. if so its toast.

[k8icu]

The one thing you haven't checked is the fuel pump. It sounds to me like the fuel pump has a problem. When the truck is cold it works okay, but as it warms up it stops running (sounds like it runs out of gas.) The fuel pump diaphragm may be effected by modern fuel. When the truck is cold the diaphragm can pump the fuel but as it warms up the diaphragm "stretches" and can not pump the fuel and the truck starves for fuel and dies. The fact that when you "stomp on the gas" and it dies leads me to believe that it's the fuel pump.

If it was me I'd get an electrical fuel pump and hook it in temporarily and see if the problem goes away. If it does then you know you need to get a new pump or rebuild the one you have. If not then the detective sleuthing continues.

Good luck with it.

[m15256]

There are a lot of excellent observations given here. There's probably a century of car/truck fixing experience behind those comments.
I just have one point to add and "just me" already made this point.
If you are new to the truck and it sat for awhile there could be all kinds of unknowns.
You might be able to do a quick fix (like cleaning the sediment bowl) but in the long run there is only one path to take. Do your research, suck up the money from someplace and whatever system you are working on fix it from one end to the other. From the inside of the fuel tank to the intake valves. From the battery box all the way to the end of each wire. Fix it right, fix it once and then enjoy the ride. I think for a lot of us the "fixing" part is also "enjoying the ride"

Rick

[w30bob]

Well said Rick.

David........are you up and running good yet?



bob

[NCM]

Hello everyone, quick update. I ordered a Facet electric fuel pump with the intention of replacing the fuel lines as well. I checked the oil again on Sunday and it does seem a little thinner and slightly gassy smelling, so I figure I'll go ahead and replace the fuel system and avoid the risk of contaminating the oil with a faulty mechanical pump. I'll change the oil as well to be safe. Parts should get here later this week and hopefully I'll get around to getting everything in this weekend. If that fails to fix my problem, I will move on to the electrical system.

[NCM]

Does anyone know whether the stock fuel lines are 5/16" or 1/4" ID? The technical manual just says "5/16" but they appear to be 1/4" from my crude measuring.

Edit: I just learned that metal lines are measured by outside diameter and rubber lines are measured by inside diameter. So in this case the 5/16" refers to the OD of the lines.

[j mccormick]

They are 5/16 O.D.

[Kaegi]

whenever something is referred to as "tubing" it pretty much is always measured by OD. "pipe" is ID usually but not in all cases. and "hose" is by ID

[NCM]

Thanks, great info Kaegi

[NCM]

Update time. I believe I have fixed the problem by installing an electric fuel pump. I just drove it around the neighborhood for 15 minutes and it didn't die. Crossing my fingers that it is actually fixed.

[just me]

Just putting a pump on an old system may mask troubles, it doesn't solve them. If it gives no more trouble, thank your Diety. But I would carry tools.

[Kaegi]

that's good to hear. now you can have mor fun driving it! always have to work out bugs when we first get them they are old. once you learn and work them out though they are very reliable things. I commuted daily for a few years in my WC52 and in my WC57. my WC54 was the only one that let me down but it was chevy powered. ;/)

[LesBerg]

I'd install a pressure gauge an check that the fuel pressure is correct. if it isn't, I'd be looking at the fuel pump first. If if fuel pressure is good, and it's trying to die when you tip into the pedal, I'd suspect the accelerator pump in the carb. It's not uncommon for the seal on it to dry out and make acceleration difficult, especially if the truck sat for a few years without being driven.

Other issues could be rust in the fuel tank or lines. If this is the case, replace the fuel lines with reproduction pieces and properly clean and seal the fuel tank.

I've had excellent results treating tanks with POR-15, available at Napa. POR-15 includes the chemicals and instructions to clean the rust out of the tank all the way to bare steel, and reseal it. I used a single-dose kit on the 50 gallon tank on our RV four years ago and haven't had a single issue since. I treated the tanks - one 50 gallon main tank with one kit, the 35 gallon axillary kit with another - and replaced the fuel lines and tank select valve and haven't had a fuel issue since. Total cost was about $150. Bear in mind that it was two fuel tanks and fifty feet of 3/8 steel fuel lines on a 30 foot RV. An M will only need one POR-15 kit, and it's enough to treat your fuel tank and a couple of 5 gallon jerry cans.

My second bit of advice is to not second guess what the gents here tell you. They have decades of experience with these rigs. If they say 'check so-and-so system', they're likely on the right track.

welcome to the forum!

Les