Another head gasket thread

[isaac_alaska]

Leaking between 5 and 6, the entire head has big scratches through it, as if the "surfacing" tool used was actually a heavy screwdriver. Also check out the sleeve in cylinder 2, they're all sleeved but #2 slid down 3/8"
I smell a rebuild coming. I think I'll use my other block, maybe a better candidate.

[RMS]

man thats a lot of coke in those combustion chambers

if that sleeve slid any further it would start kissing the crank hmm those sleeves are pressed in cold ...hmmm did the temp up there get down to -69.5F

the asbestos gasket can take a lot of abuse it is thicker than say the felpro. had one bouncing around under the passenger seat for years. road side repair was needed 20min later (fingers crossed) I was on the road. head has not been off since

I would use the new one and keep the old one under the seat....or drive the sleeve back up, use the asbestos gasket, bolt the head back on and rebuild the other motor.



wow that's out, I have never seen a 25inch gasket that far out. I have seen heads and blocks with poor quality control mostly Plymouth and Desoto where all the coolant passages in the head are out by a mile. the ind, T, are much better(usually) .... crown heads and blocks seem to be the finest in the dcpd family.

[isaac_alaska]

That's a good thought, not too much trouble involved. Wonder how to drive the sleeve back up? Here's a close up of the surface finish of the head. This is without the gasket, it just looks shiny because of the imprint.

[RMS]

i've seen many heads that look like a gas axe was used for the resurfacing.

is it easier to just pull it ........hmm.....well you could drop the pan and the rod cap, push the piston out the top. then take a round plate (with a hole in the middle) the size of the OD of the sleeve, some ready rod or a big bolt and some nuts along with a top plat (of something substantial) fill the sleeve with dry ice then tighten the nut/bolt. maybe use some red lock tight. I think the sleeve is too had to peen in place like one may do to a spinning Uj cup.
or a three jaw puller attached to a slide hammer

if you didn't spend all that time making that beautiful header and intake I would offer to sell you a 251

[isaac_alaska]

for what it would cost to ship your 251 up here, i should be able to get my other 230 rebuilt. at least i think it's another 230, i've honestly never taken a measurement on it. summer is coming up, and i 'should' get some work done for the university, specifically towards my thesis, but hopefully i'll be able to put aside enough time and money to re-do the motor in this one. i got pretty good with pulling and installing the engine, as i had to do it 4 times over a 2 year period to get the engine installed in my power wagon. issues with the replacement engine fitting the existing starter/transmission combo. i'm hoping this one will go a lot quicker!

[isaac_alaska]

well, i got the sleeve slid back up today! project has been on the back burner all summer, since i've been in Nome driving my other truck and haven't had a chance to work on this one. but, today, i got a few hours to play with it! found some huge bolts at the hardware store, they are 1/2" 13tpi, 10 inches long. should have got the 11" or even 12" as it wouldn't interfere with anything and i could have pulled farther without having to reset my "shims" (actually just progressively longer bolts) under the top jack plate.

here's a couple pictures of the process. it's pulled up 1" extra to allow me to clean it up and glue it and press it back into place. i think i'm actually going to pull it up one more inch, with 2" of "high temperature sleeve retainer" at the top and bottom of the sleeve i doubt it will ever slide back down again.

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[isaac_alaska]

Sleeve is back in place, new rings on the piston I had to pull, and connecting rod and bearing cap torqued back in place. Turns out the rod did hit the sleeve and knocked a piece out of the bottom but I don't think it's going to matter at all, it's half the size of a dime from the very bottom of the sleeve where it's notched for the rod anyway. Some the head was off I had it steamed, tumbled, and planed flat for $80, and a 6-pack for a tip since the machinist dropped what he was doing and had it done for me in an hour from drop off to pick up.
Now since I have some engine enamel left over from my charger, and another hour to kill tonight, I'm gonna make the head Chrysler blue

[isaac_alaska]

Almost back together. Oil pan, oil, vents, and carb left. Discovered the water jacket on my manifold developed a leak into the intake. Maybe the head gasket was fine after all. But I'm glad I pulled the head and discovered the dropped sleeve.

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[ZGjethro]

Isaac, what are those intake and exhaust manifolds? Are they custom or an off the shelf item?
And what is the red hose/line connected to the intake manifold for? I also see another hose connection point to the right of the carb?

[isaac_alaska]

That's a manifold and "header" I built, I have a thread on here with lots of pictures of how I built it. Those ports are for a water jacket so that engine coolant will keep the manifold hot. To help prevent icing in the manifold.

Got it back together and started today! After sitting taken apart all summer. It's running rough, I expected it to run rough for a while while everything burns off but I've had it up to temp twice and it's stopped smoking and still rough. I'm hoping it's just dirty points from sitting, and a good cleaning or perttronix will fix it.

[just me]

Bad gas from age? Gummed up carb ports from sitting? Time for some Seafoam.

[isaac_alaska]

good idea. i'll sea foam the carb and fuel tank as soon as i work on the distributor. but it's pouring rain today so i don't feel like taking the distributor apart to get rid of moisture outside in a downpour. i don't see that ending as well as it could

[isaac_alaska]

http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7517

this is the manifold thread i mentioned

[isaac_alaska]

Filed and cleaned the points. I wanted to install a pertronix but as it turns out my kit is missing the actual igniter piece. Garage sale box of parts find lol. If anyone has a kit if take it, otherwise I'll order a new one soon. I also tried to wrap fiberglass insulation tape around the intake and exhaust to help keep it heated. The manifold is still icy cold even with a hot motor, just below the carb. Guess I need to pull it off again and fix the header leak.

Still runs junky. Runs pretty good for a while and then gets worse and worse. It's getting plenty of fuel, and the carburetor was just cleaned and all gaskets changed less than a year ago. Shut it off and let it sit a few minutes and it runs better for maybe 30 seconds and then degrades again.

I'll do a compression test next, if it checks out the only thing I can think is the intake has to be hotter. I know the stock cast intake manifold runs somewhere around "too hot to touch" and mine right now is cold to the touch.

[Kaegi]

how old is the coil? they can do exactly that when they start going bad. if the bottom of the coil is bulged out or oil is leaking from the top some where its toast