I worked on it until about 11 last night. I put it back together with the ball point pen spring holding the pump check ball, lowered the float level just a little and started cranking. No fuel really poured out of the PCV anymore but it just wouldn't run. It would run a starting fluid but not on the carb. I noticed that if I had someone crank while I looked in the carb, if you had the choke on, started cranking and took the choke off that fuel would come out of the vent right behind the choke. Now after messing around with it it will not even run on starting fluid. I took the plugs out and sprayed them with brake cleaner and no change. I am to the point of selling it or doing a v8 swap. I am DONE with this 230.
V8 has a more complicated carburetor. Just quit dicking about and rebuild with new and CORRECTw components the unit you have. These are NOT magic mystery. Suck, squeeze, bang blow. Fuel, spark and compression. All just basic tune up skills.
Start at base engine. Compression, manifold gasket condition, etc.
Make sure it has decent spark at the correct time.
Then, a correctly setup carb.
It will run.
Ok so I am still trying to get it to run. My friend get the idea to run it off propane. He had his kit left from when he parted his jeep out. We decided to run it through the carb since that is how dual fuel set ups work. Still spits and sputters but wont run. When its spitting and sputtering my manifold vacuum is 30 inches.
I also bought a 97 f350 with a dana 60, 10.25 and a running 351w. I may use this motor with a 2wd np435 im going to pick up today.
In the mean time, Will Watson is still trying to convince me to get my 230 running. I have ordered Civilian plug wires and plugs to try.
He said "Civilian wires, on the distributor bend the core over the outside and shove it in the hole. The boots slid over the threads holds the wire in."
So I was about to give up on the ol 230 and Will Waston talked me into trying civilian plugs and wires so I ordered some 7mm solid core wires from Rock Auto part # 3602 and AC Delco R45 Plugs
Cut them to length, wrapped electrical tape around them one time to make them fit tighter into the distributor, bent the wire over then pushed it into the distributor. Then you take the boot and push it over the threads.
Got the put on friday night, and tried to start it on propane with no luck. The vaporizer was not letting any fuel through
We took the propane stuff off, hooked the fuel back up, and heated the intake with a torch and boom! It fired up!
Now just start swapping the original wires back in one at a time till you find the bad ones and get a couple new ones. I have a couple spares I can part with
Isaac
Fairbanks, AK
Civilian WM300 on DC3 tires
'52 M37 on 11x16 Michelin
'52 M37 on Apple R-1 tractor tires Photo Gallery
Somewhere in this thread I read where you said the spark was bright blue, then someone said no you should have an orange spark. A strong spark at plug gaps should be blue with a shape pop as the spark jumps. Reddish or orange spark is weak, a sign of a bad coil or other electrical component issues.
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