Waterproof distributor

[TAK824]

Question of the day; is the waterproof distributor base, when fully installed, supposed to still be off the engine block by about 1/4 of an inch? That is the gap I have between the timing adjustment plate and the block. In the manual, it talks about a "cork oil washer" between the distributor and the block. Mine is missing, and I don't see one listed on any of the parts sites. Yes, I have the oil pump installed and bolted in place. The distributor slides right in, and yes, the " offset tang" lines up and slips into place, very obviously so. I can't turn it at all (slight slack movement) when it's in position (as it should be) so I know it's seated. I'm just wondering if that 1/4 inch gap is OK, or if something is amiss? Everything seems to line up, work OK, turn correctly, etc. Just that 1/4 inch gap concerns me, unless it's supposed to be that way?

Thanks all.

TK

[just me]

Something is amiss. It should be flush.

[Elwood]

Is this distributor new to this engine, or was it previously installed and flush with the mounting face?

[TAK824]

It is new to this particular engine. The oil pump was already on this engine.

[Rich]

TAK824,
Is there play in the shaft of the Dist? You may have a civilian oil pump.
I am guessing that you have put the engine on TDC on number one cylinder on compression stroke.
The rotor should be pointed to number one plug wire.
Rich

[RMS]

it sounds like one of two thing could be happening. you could have a long block 251 distributor witch Charls noted as being longer than the sort block 230 dizzy (could not find post for exact length) or the distributor base washer was omitted/misplaced from the distributor assembly. fig 41 part #29 cnd eme D114 instr 8 pg 27. fits between adjuster base and distributor body. at no time should the distributor shaft be dead headed against the oil pump shaft.

if you bought a flelpro overhaul gasket set for the Chrysler Flathead the cork gasket should be included. if memory serves me there should also be a rubber O for the civilian dizzy

[TAK824]

There is very little play in the shaft. The distributor was just refurbished by MWM. Oil pump went along so they could verify it was the correct one with the correct tang. Everything slides in OK, the shaft and tang line up, and I can feel when the tang slips into the oil pump drive groove. I feel it "bottom out" when it hits the oil pump drive, then I turn the rotor slightly one direction or the other, and it slips into the groove just fine. At that point, I can no longer turn the rotor (other than slight slack) so I know it's in the pump drive. But, it won't go that extra 1/4 inch to be on the block surface. I loosened the bolts on the oil pump, and let it back off a bit, then the distributor would slid down that 1/4 inch to the surface. But of course the pump is now 1/4 off the surface. Puzzling, most puzzling. I did try another identical oil pump from another identical engine, and it was the same thing.

[TAK824]

Well, problem solved.....sort of. Thanks everyone for your input. With that, I was able to determine that I indeed have the distributor meant for a 251 CDN, not the 230 that I have. When I bought the rig, I was not able to talk to the original owner, so didn't know many details. Everything was there, and it was a 230 engine, so I assumed that the distributor would be correct. I should have been suspicious, since the distributor was not on the engine. In fact, several items were not on the engine. It appears that things were happening by the PO that shouldn't have been. And, it's wasn't even the correct engine. It is a 230, but it's a civilian one, with a "P" designation on the block. Needless to say, I should have checked, but who would have guessed. SIGH. At least I have a good (I hope) T245 mil spec engine to put back in. So, now to call and see if the shaft/tang can be changed out to the shorter 230 version. What is the old saying....buyer beware? At least the ambulance body and interior is pristine and totally rust free....sort of makes up for the engine!

[RMS]

glad you got if figured out...........I would be tempted to turn a 1/4in spacer and install it between the adjuster plate and the dizzy body. if your set on changing the shaft I can dig around and see if any of my loose dizzys are of the 230 type and we could trade.

what are the #'s? and from were to were would I measure

cdn dizzy # IAU-4009-ut

[w30bob]

Hi TAK,

The "P" on your engine pad is for "Plymouth". There should be 2 numbers after the P......like P26, P28, or P30 and they were used in Plymouths made in 1955, 56 and 57 respectively. Any other numbers and it's not a 230, it's a 218 or 201. The interesting thing is the P26 and P27 were rated at 125 hp, a significant increase from the M37 T245's 78 hp......and the P30 was rated at a whopping 132hp!


regards,
bob