New M-37 owner questions ...

[Dick]

WP_20150926_13_36_57_Pro.jpg (216.86 KiB) Viewed 5085 times

Just picked up truck # 972 on the register, a '52 35424 serial numbered basically unmodified truck with 19k miles on the speedometer.
Some questions that right away have come up are;
The steering is atrocious! It has 11.00x18 NDCC tires on it now ... is that a negative impact on steering ease/lack of same?
Is there a GI issue all synchromesh transmission available ... I see ad's for a NP420 is that sync in all 4 gears?
The pickax and handle are missing, where can I buy NOS (US Made!) Or used GI for the pickax & it's handle?
Is it better to buy new 16" ND GI style tires from my local tire dealer or from the guys with ads in "Supply Line" or ..... ?
Power steering kits; who makes them, what is the best one, can it be removed to restore the vehicle to full original GI status once installed? Who should install the kit [i.e. not me]?
Is there a non oil-bath air filter available?
Where do I buy new made replacement oil bath air filters?:
Are there any Other filters, such as fuel (?) (s) = ? same question on where to buy new ones?
Did M-37's in Korea and/or VN have M-1919 or M-60 machine gun mounts?
Did M-37's ever have the anti-aircraft 50 cal. M-2 round mount over the cab passenger side?
Who can refurbish the metal wheel for the 16" , clean, remove rust, repaint, etc? Should this be done before simply mounting new 9.00x16 rubber?
What should I be trying to find for having a full lube/oil & fluid changes/grease of those many nipples? My local jiffy lube guy OR ??
Any and all help would be very much appreciated!
Dick Conger

[w30bob]

Hi Dick,

Well........here's a couple answers;

Not sure what you mean by atrocious steering......hard to turn, wandering, oscillating.....? Bigger tires never seem to make steering better.

There were some NP420s that were full synchromesh.....check here...http://www.t137.com/registry/help/transmission.htm

You can find GI Pioneer tools at just about any military vehicle meet.........not sure where you're located, but the season is winding down for the northern part of the US. You can also find them on Ebay, but they're 3 or 4 times the price you'd pay at a meet. I'm sure John at Midwest Military could help you out.

I don't think your local tire guy can beat Wade's prices for NDT's, but I could be wrong. Universal Tire, maker of Firestone? repro NDTs is at all the big military vehicle meets.......you don't pay for shipping if you pick them up at the meet, which saves you a ton of money.

Power steering kits I'm not familiar with. But Tom at Snake River does have one.........http://www.snakeriver4x4.com/psteering.php

I'm sure a non-oil bath filter can be figured out......I just don't know of anything off hand.

Where do you buy new made replacement oil bath air cleaners? I don't believe they've made them in decades. If you want the stock oil bath air cleaner I'd give Vintage Power Wagons a call for a nice used one.

As for other filters.........depends on your truck. Early trucks had a fuel filter mounted under the hood by the voltage regulator, later trucks had a filter in the fuel tank. You can check this site under Production Changes to see at what SNs those changes took place. The tank filter is reproduced by John at Midwest Military and the underhood filter is rare as hen's teeth. There's also an oil filter under the hood..........those filter elements are readily available.

Can't talk to machine guns all that much.

I've never seen a 50 cal in a round mount on an M37.....there's no structural support in the roof for such a monster. The 50 cal mount for the M37 was an M24 mount similar the the M23 mount on the Dodge WC. The M24 mount is a bit wider and sits inside the bed up against the front wall, as opposed to between the cab and bed on the WC.

Anybody who restores pretty much anything can sandblast and paint your original wheels. If you're looking for a specific company I guess that would depend on where you live. Yes, you should have them re-done before mounting new tires and tubes unless they're in good shape to begin with. It's much easier (and comes out better) if you paint the rims with the tires off.

I'd love to see the look on the kid's face at Jiffy Lube if you rolled in with your M37. Now that would be priceless!! I suggest you don't do that. I'd suggest you get the maintenance manual for the M37 and do it yourself. To be brutally honest..........if an oil change and grease job is above your skill level...........keeping an M37 alive is going to cost you a fortune. If you've got that kind of money and don't want to (or can't) work on your M37 I suggest you look in Supply Line for a Military Vehicle club near you and ask them who'd they'd recommend to wrench on your M....or find a MV restoration shop near you and have them maintain it for you. Otherwise I'm not sure who'd I recommend commercially to work on it.

Sorry I couldn't answer them all.......but the rest of the crew will chime in, I'm sure.

regards,
bob

[jim lee]

M37s are different than your typical 4x4. I used to fight with mine 'till I gave in and let it determine how it was to be used. Put back to "stock" and driven like they figured they'd be back in the 50s, they actually work really well. For normal street driving I hardly notice 1st & 2nd don't have syncros. Its always 3rd, 4th, 3rd, 4th.. Shift to 2nd after stopping. After awhile you get used to a top speed of 47mph. In fact, it kind of relaxing.

So what's your beef with oil bath air filters? As far as I can tell, they seem to work fine.

But then, everyone does tend to change a few things. Pertronix ignition is, in my book the bees knees. And, I do like having a cup holder when picking up cheeseburgers.

For parts Midwest Military is a favorite. There is also Vintage Powerwagon. although I've not had dealings with them myself.

Good luck with it, it looks really nice in the photo.

-jim lee

[k8icu]

For tires and steering it looks like your M37 a custom rim and tire size on it. Tires could be from a M561 Gama Goat, but I could be wrong. I would change back to the 900 x 16 stock rimes and tires if you want to keep it looking stock. The bigger tires was probably an attempt to get a little more road speed. With the stock tires you'll find the steering a little better. It still wont be power steering, but will be manageable. If you want turn with the palm of one hand then you'll have to convert to power steering. Not a simple swap, but as mention before Snake River has all the parts to do it.

For the Engine parts like the air filter, oil filter etc. Check with Midwest Military and Vintage Power Wagons.

As for machine gun mount. Here is a write up on the mount for the http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=850 As for what was mounted in Vietnam? What do you have? M60? M2? M1919? From what I can tell the M60 was the "stock" weapon but GIs being GIs would put what ever they could get their hands on on the truck. So if you want to Ma Duce on it go for it.

Look around your area for a sandblaster or powder coating company. They should be able to sandblast the rims and many of them will even prime and repaint...but you pay for that. Or get some tools and get to work. For me the fun of owning the vehicle is turning the wrenches and getting dirty. But yes clean your rims before putting new rubber on them.

As for greasing the many fittings...again I believe grab a grease gun and crawl under that bad boy. The GI who drove the truck had to do the PM (Preventive Maintenance) on the truck and I believe we as owners and stewards of the vehicles should follow their example. But that's just me. If you want to pay someone to do the PM for you then I'd recommend getting to know your local mechanic shop and give them the TM and LO (Tech Manual and Lube Order) for the truck and have him do it and pay him. I would avoid Jiffy Lube or any of those quick oil change places. They won't have a clue on what to do.

Again I would recommend getting the maintenance manuals and getting to learn all you can about your new ride. Have fun and enjoy the hobby.

[k8icu]

Here is another link to a bunch of picture of many different weapons on the M37 in VN.

http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4949

[Dick]

Hello
Thanks Bob and Jim for your info, as I progress with the research and start getting things done I'm sure it will be very useful.

The Truck steering is very hard to steer/turn the wheel. One of the first things I'll do is switch the four 18" to four 16" that came with it. The 16's have 10.50x16 LT directional tires [well used old rubber/tires] on now. Then make sure their pressure is up to 'code' and that the linkage is greased. The steering wheel itself is cracked badly on all three spokes so will want to find a NOS replacement soon, if any are out there?

Luckily for me I have a local (Winchester, Tenn.) friend who is having, as a hobby, some early WW II Ford made jeeps restored and another old college buddy [we met in college in 1962!] has been restoring jeeps for over 40 years near South Bend Indiana.

On the oil bath filters; I was judging them on our rider mower that uses one and it's a pain to deal with [spoiled by just toss and replace dry ones?] and may be too small for the mowing job as it clogs quickly and makes the engine run/start less well.

Drove a '61 VW beetle that I bought new in Bordeaux, France while stationed as a PFC/SP4 at the 3987th USAAD (US Army Ammunition Depot), Captieux, France and eventually drove that 4 speed stick for well over 150,000 miles. My Army work truck was a Peugeot 403 pickup truck [stick also] [governor on the engine] that looked like a covered wagon. So, I'm used to having the engine help with down shifting-breaking ... so if a proper full sync transmission if out there I'll want to get it installed. I'll also check on the tip for a power steering kit also [wife's request if she is to ever drive it].
A question I forgot to ask yesterday is about the Hercules Co. Piston rod engine kits(?) Are the stock GI rods prone to break under casual usage not full heavy ammo loadings? Wikipedia mentions it was high engine speeds that caused rods to break.
My truck was "reconditioned" by the US Army in 1969 according to a plate on the dash, what can I presume was done to upgrade things at that time as normal reconditioning ??? The transmission is not sync in first or second for sure. Is there a way to tell it the rods were upgraded without an engine removal/teardown? [or breakage]. My truck, according to my buddy John in INdiana has original miles at 19,100 plus miles and I'm thinking not much should be 'worn out' with that few miles on it!

Thanks again for your help... I'm sure as things go along I'll have more questions ...

[isaac_alaska]

You can still downshift/ engine brake. The truck only goes maybe 45 if you're pushing it. 3rd with your foot off the gas will slow you right down. For second you'll need to learn to double clutch, but it's not too hard. I picked it up in a few hours. I'm still not terribly proficient but I can make it happen. Double clutch is half of what makes it so fun to drive.

[w30bob]

Hi Dick,

Typically with manual steering the thinner the tires the easier it is to turn them. It's all about contact area with the road and frictional forces. Less of both makes it easier to turn.

For NOS steering wheels you're getting to the party a little late. There are still a few floating around out there, but the price is climbing. But don't fret.....they now reproduce the steering wheel and it's pretty much indistinguishable from an original. As usual.........Midwest or VPW can help you there.

Rod breakage is not a problem on the 230 flathead that I'm aware of........I've never heard of the Hercules rod kits. Maybe others on here can shed some light on that one.

Don't let the "low" mileage deceive you........most of these trucks were driven HARD during their life in the military. That's not to say they weren't taken care of......I'm just saying I've never noticed a good correlation between mileage and condition with these trucks. Although I will say Air Force M37s seem to have led better lives than Army or Marines M37s.

Have a good one,
bob

[ZGjethro]

Hello Dick. I am running the same Power king Premium Traction tires that were new on the truck when I bought it six years ago. I bought one more for a spare and it cost me $187. They seem to work well, but they don't have the stock appearance

I was unfamiliar with oil bath filters, so I welded a piece of tube steel to some .25" plate and mate an intake. I threaded in the ports for the distributor cooling lines and the crank case vent line. My truck does not have the brake or fuel vent lines, and I don't think I will be fording deep streams, so I left them off. I stuck a K&N cone filter on the end of the pipe intake. It works really well, but you can hear a hissing when you open the throttle

I bought a few rims, and I need to take them to a local sand blaster to get rid of the old paint and rust. The problem for me is that sandblasting them almost costs what the rims did. I would love to have a place to blast my own rims. Does anyone here know if an M37 rim will fit in a cheap sand blasting cabinet?

[52PLOWERWAGON]

awesome truck

what are you gonna do w/ the 1100x18s

[PoW]

Make sure the 11.00's have proper air pressure.

Stock 9.00's will give only some 5K miles service.

The 11.00's will ride better, last longer.

I've run them for over 20 years.

You will have a bit better road speed.

I'll never put 9.00's on an M37 again.

DG

ps...Oil bath air cleaners are for ever, keep it.

[Dick]

awesome truck

what are you gonna do w/ the 1100x18s

Hi;
I do want to either trade them (there are the 4 on the ground, the spare is the stock 9.00x16) or sell them.
Dick

[F18hornetm]

The oil bath cleaner can just be cleaned not replaced. Dump out the small amount of oil in it, wipe out any crude and refill with clean oil. If truth be known probably filters air better than a cheap paper element. All the older farm tractors had them and I bet rarely died of dirt ingestion. I have seen small engines die of dirt ingestion and they had foam or paper filters.
Good looking truck, looks like all there. Wish you the best with it.

[Dick]

awesome truck

what are you gonna do w/ the 1100x18s

Hello
I do want to sell or trade my 4 11.00x18"'s for GI mint condition or reconditioned 16" "correct" complete rims?
Are you interested in them?
Dick

[Dick]

Hey;

Several answers or questions or comments for reply's I've received;
I'm located in South Central Tenn. halfway between Nashville and Chattanooga, west of I-24 about 20 miles. Near Winchester, TN.
Age = 74
Q what are my 4 11.00x18" wheel & rims worth [see pix of my M37 to get an idea of their condition/tread etc] ???
I'll keep the oil bath air filter, thanks for the insight.
Breaks need help so will first take a look at the master cylinder to see if it needs fluid. Beyond that will have to find a "breaks" place to rebuild or replace master cyl. or brake shoes ....

Any recommendations on the Memphis Equipment Co. ??? Do they install their parts, things like that? Work on the little guys like a M-37?

When and where are the upcoming swap meets ? Closest to middle Tenn.?

I've decided against having power steering installed.

Lube and fluids change is next on my to do list and I've arranged with an independent garage who has/is working on restored GI Jeeps [WW II models and 151's] for a fellow veh collector near here to do my initial comprehensive clean & regrease and lube and check on all 'fluids'.

Ordering a set of 9.00x16" rubber NDCC's for my rims with very worn GI chevron rubber now on them.

For the moment at least will use the unmodified original, NOS, or best repro [like tires] available to keep it's early '52 version, recognizing that the Army (?) reconditioned it at TEAD depot in '68 or '69.

Needs full set of repro canvas from seats, tailgate chain covers, cab top, & bed top.

Any opinions or comments on getting the " M-42 Command Vehicle " side windowed bed and end pc's.??? I like the idea of having better ability to look around while driving/parking/.

Again, thanks for your help and comments & replies!

Dick
former SP-4 ORD, stationed at the US Army Ammunition Depot, Captieux, France 1960-62. Second 8 at Aberdeen PG ammo renovation school mos 412.10.