Oil Pan

[N1VSM]

I know this was covered in the previous forum, but I'm planning on dropping the oil pan & cleaning out the sludge. I'm having a terrible time finding the answers to all these questions in my manuals, so here it goes:

What is the NAPA (or other) number for the oil pan gasket?
When reinstalling the gasket, what sort of sealant is best?
What is the torque on the pan bolts?
Is there a preferred (or "stay away from") cleaner for the oil pickup?
What else should I check while I'm in there?

[Nickathome]

I can really only answer the 1 question regarding torque ot the pan bolts. From what I have heard and learned, snug to maybe 1/4 turn past snug is sufficient....

[Cal_Gary]

I dropped my pan last summer, to include replacing the rear main seal. I got the seal and gaskets from VPW-don't know what the numbers are. I used Permatex on the oil pan gaskets, only on the pan side (easier to remove if you have to replace them in the future, rather than trying to get it off the block). I did nothing with the oil pickup-just know that it needs to be primed with fresh oil upon reinstallation if you happen to take it off. The rear main comes in two types-a bolt on, or two halves with two "h" shaped end pieces. It all goes under the rear main bearing cap. I don't remember the torque specs for the cap, or the oil pan bolts, but have had no problems since completing the project.
Gary

[HingsingM37]

Nick,

I have a Victor number of OS-30833. If you go to the NAPA online site you can pull their number up by entering a 1950's dodge truck 230 6cyl..Same thing with Autozone. I got mine there for $8. They had to order but had it the next day.

I use aviation form a gasket (loctite#30517)religiously on all my cork and paper gaskets. I am old school. I have always shyed away from using silicone sealants on hot oil sealing surfaces.Replace your rear main seal while your in there if you have not.

Use you 1/4" drive set. I went finger tight then 1/2 turn. The cork will smash and tear if overtorqued. There is no specific torque that I could find. Use a criss cross pattern when tightening. DO NOT trim the pan end lip gaskets flush to the pan as with some other automotive applications. When you fit them in they will look about a 1/4" too tall . They will compress and fit fine. I made this mistake and had to buy another set. Read the enclosed instructions.

I used carb cleaner on my screen and some light air to blow it out (wear safety glasses here).

Look for metal or unusual wear marks. Ck. your rod and bearing cap bolts for tightness.

Thats my two cents. Have fun

[HingsingM37]

My post was for the original question by N1VSM. Sorry for the confusion.

[Rick C]

Is there a way to tell ahead of time which style rear main seal is in there? Can the non 2 piece one be replaced without removing the transmission?
Thanks
Rick C

[topellis]

I am pretty sure I just went to the parts store and got the one for the civie 230 and didn't have any problems. I also used tack adhesive to keep it in place while I put the pan on. I used no sealant, just the cork gasket and have had no leaks yet and that was several years ago.
You also may want to very carefully look at the mating surface of the pan. Most are distorted from previous over torque of the bolts. You can very carefully use a piece of wood to carefully tap the mating surface sheet metal back to a flat position. Not sure of the torque but it isn't very tight. I think the number one problem with repaceing the pan gasket is that most people tend to over torque it when it goes back on and then leaks. Just enough to compress the cork gasket some.

Good luck,
Mark

[SOTVEN]

Hello all. I replaced the oil pan cork when I got my truck (6-7 years ago) and currently it is leaking oil by the gallons. I am about to redo this ordeal, but this time I think I will go with high heat silicone, applied to the clean and dry mating surface of the oil pan and valve covers. A friend of mine that has four agricultural tractors, has used this type of fix on them and no leeks since. Removing the pan was not much of a deal when he tried it after a year or so.

[Cal_Gary]

Sorry for the delayed response, Rick. If you have the clutch access pan off, shine a light up to the back of the block around the end of the crank, ahead of the flywheel and clutch area-if you don't see any bolt heads you have the split-seal type. VPW gave me the scoop on these and there is no rhyme or reason as to which type was used on which model years/types. I do not know how the single piece type installs-can Charles or another M37 veteran weigh in on this?
Thanks,
Gary