First look at my brakes...

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:39 pm

I took the passenger side rear drum off today.

I hope that is brake fluid.

If no pics appear, I give up.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:02 pm

Impossible to tell from a picture, but there is just as good a chance it's gear lube from the rear differential. You'll need to pull the rear hub to check all that out. There is an outer seal that should keep gear lube from entering the wheel hub bearings, however it typically leaks letting oil get into the inner hub. After this is allowed to go on for a while, the inner seal lets go & the brake linings get soaked. The only sure fix is to investigate the WHOLE area & will likely include replacement of inner & outer hub seals making sure their mating surface is in good condition (not worn out of round, grooved, or rust pitted). The brake components in the photo look pretty well done for, a full brake system build is in order if what I see here is typical at every wheel. This is the perfect time to inspect, repack, or replace wheel bearings as needed.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:31 pm

You've pretty well summed up my thoughts on the thing. The previous owner had SAID he did the fronts, but not the rear. I have all his receipts which indicate he bought the parts, did the front bearings and races, new shoes on the front and one wheel cylinder, but nothing on the rear.

I will still go through it all.

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:17 pm

My thoughts, too. I have seen worse, though.

KenInGA · Post by **KenInGA** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:52 pm

Looks like mine. Brake fluid, probably. Just take a screwdriver and a small wire brush and go to town. And replace the wheel cylinder. Remove the shoes and wipe them off, steel wool them and hit them with a blow torch to burn off all the brake fluid and stuff. Reinstall, bleed, and adjust, and away you go, or stop, rather.

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 2:56 am

I had one wheel look just like that when I pulled the drum. Definitely replace the cylinder, and the shoes as well as they look pretty worn. If you're not replacing the shoes, at least take some brake cleaner and get the fluid off.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:30 am

There is a company in town that relines brake shoes. If they can do the odd variable thickness of these shoes, I may do that. Otherwise I'll just get new ones and start off fresh.

Hopefully, I can get a chance to work on them tonight.

I read somewhere else that these are full floating axles, and you don't pack the bearings? Is that true? Seems odd not to pack 'em with grease.

I might as well re do the whole shebang while I'm in there.

ffr1910 · Post by **ffr1910** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 7:25 am

they are full floating and you do pack them with grease. mine looked like yours, like someone started to dio the work then became discouraged. if you have meat left on your shoes, i would run them unless you just want to replace them. you can clean them as mentioned before. i cleaned mine by spraying the surface liberally with brake cleaner and scrubbing with a wire brush. also, when you get it all together, i would recommend changing your brake fluid at least once a year or every six months. this will help keep moisture out and help keep rust for forming on all of your new parts. hope this helps,

bill

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:23 am

refit1701 wrote:There is a company in town that relines brake shoes. If they can do the odd variable thickness of these shoes, I may do that. Otherwise I'll just get new ones and start off fresh.

Hopefully, I can get a chance to work on them tonight.

I read somewhere else that these are full floating axles, and you don't pack the bearings? Is that true? Seems odd not to pack 'em with grease.

I might as well re do the whole shebang while I'm in there.

The lining is 1/4" thick, if the drums have been turned, you can shim .010" under the lining or radius the new lining ends. I doubt you can get them re-lined as cheap as buying the whole shoe with new lining. We offer re-line service, but I can supply new shoes cheaper than I can reline.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:52 pm

The size of the hub nut is 2 9/16th?? Autozone thought I was nutty when I asked about one today.

I guess I'll get one over the internet.

gwalker · Post by **gwalker** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 7:40 pm

Typically a full floating axle design allows the diff. oil to go into the hub an lube the bearings, this requires a good oil type seal in the hub to keep it there. In the m-37 they installed an oil seal on the axle shaft to keep oil OUT of the hub which requires the brgs to be lubed, as in the front, w grease, then used an simpler grease seal in the hub. Thats why there are 2 seals on each side of the rear.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:13 am

refit1701 wrote:The size of the hub nut is 2 9/16th?? Autozone thought I was nutty when I asked about one today.

I guess I'll get one over the internet.

The nut is also octagon shaped (8 sided instead of 6), you can get a socket at NAPA.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:24 am

Great! Thanks, Charles!!

MSeriesRebuild wrote:
refit1701 wrote:The size of the hub nut is 2 9/16th?? Autozone thought I was nutty when I asked about one today.

I guess I'll get one over the internet.
The nut is also octagon shaped (8 sided instead of 6), you can get a socket at NAPA.

First look at my brakes...

First look at my brakes...

Brakes...