Adjusting Valves

[jbxx]

I thought that I would at least look at my valve adjustments
this last weekend. I would be using the cold CTMSR method.
I removed the inner fender ( I can't believe that it would be humanly
possible without removal).
The ex manifold is blocking about 30% of the access. the heat shield between the fuel pump and the ex manifold blocks about 25% of the front access. The only part of my anatomy that is small enough to get in there
is not dexterous enough to do any adjusting! Am I missing something? The original manual says to do it with the engine running so that rules out removing the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Also, another question; the front two nuts on the exhaust manifold have
a cone shaped inner edge that mates to a brass( I think) thick washer
that has a matching concave inner face. What is the purpose of this setup
over just a flat faced nut and washer?

[knattrass]

We had a leak on the cover plate which we put on when rebuilding - you are right, the front is obscured by pump/shield. I could barely put the bolts back in. Probably going to have to make a Tee handle to get in and tighten. I'll be interested in hearing the "how" as well.

I can tell you that we ordered the 4 brass washer and conical nuts from MWM for the exhaust man that were not on the vehicle. These allow the manifold to expand with the heat and not crack. The brass washer conical side face away from the manifold and the nuts point into them. The torque is very low like 10-15 ft lb. The intake is all thick flat washers and nuts. We found that the one washer that fits up under the carb has a slight bend in it to meet the radius on the intake.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I thought that I would at least look at my valve adjustments
this last weekend. I would be using the cold CTMSR method.
I removed the inner fender ( I can't believe that it would be humanly
possible without removal).
The ex manifold is blocking about 30% of the access. the heat shield between the fuel pump and the ex manifold blocks about 25% of the front access. The only part of my anatomy that is small enough to get in there
is not dexterous enough to do any adjusting! Am I missing something? The original manual says to do it with the engine running so that rules out removing the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Also, another question; the front two nuts on the exhaust manifold have
a cone shaped inner edge that mates to a brass( I think) thick washer
that has a matching concave inner face. What is the purpose of this setup
over just a flat faced nut and washer?

Adjusting valves cold isn't a big deal, you can easily remove the fuel pump heat shield for better access. It's easier if you set the right front end of the axle tube on a jack stand & remove the tire & rim from the hub. You need the proper tools, tappet wrenches, a set is available from Sears Craftsman that is decent at a reasonable cost. They are much longer than normal open end wrenches greatly improving workability. If you already know the method, this should get you going.

[pfrederi]

I just adjusted my valves. Charles is right about removing the front wheel, saves a lot of bending and twisting. ( I used the tire dolly tool (14569) I got from Northern for the first time...wish I had bought it years ago makes getting the wheel on and off the hub easy...no smashed fingers or strained back. I got it on sale for $30, now it is $40 but to me would be worth it. Also, as a shameless additional plug, the $20 tire step is well worth it when you have to do something under the hood and are not removing the fenders....)

Also I didn't have tappet wrenches but just plain old Craftsman 7/16 and 1/2 box/open combination wrenches worked OK

As a side note I stopped in our Sears store which has a large hardware department to get some tappet wrenches....none of the clerks had a clue what I was talking about...then I asked for safety wire pliers and got the same blank looks

[jbxx]

I do have tappet wrenches (in BS and whitworth too).
A guy at work had a little trick that I thought I'd pass on.
He said to grind down the sharp edges of the wrenches so
that when they are a thrashing about they don't cut your hands.
Don't know if that's good info or not, just thought that I'd pass it on.
J.B.