Fed up with waterproof 24 volt system

[Wes]

I've had my 1952 M37 for many years and I have always tried to be a purist an keep it all original in the restoration and maintenance. After a day of trying to get my truck running without success (out in the woods), I have come to the conclusion that, for my needs anyway, that idea is horse shit. I am sick to death of that god awful ignitor, that take several tools to remove and can't be bought at a parts store. Horrific plug wires, and having to keep two batteries charged. and that pain in the ass oil bath air cleaner. I use my truck at my hunting camp, where there are no garages or parts stores. My truck sits for as much as a month or more at a time without being run. I need a truck that doesn't require a motor pool to maintain it.

So here's my idea...I'm happy with the strait 6 flat head. So instead of replacing it, I want to convert the motor, as much as possible, to civilian parts. First thing to go is that waterproof ignitor (I really hate that thing). I want a plain old distributor with a separate coil, and a cap and plug wires that snap off. I want plugs and points and a cap that I can buy at Auto-zone. I want to replace the fuel pump without having to order it online. My Tahoe has driven 153,000 miles on paper air filters with no problems and if I have to take it off, it doesn't drip oil all over gods green earth. Its getting to the point where no one will take a ride in it with me because they are afraid of getting stranded in the forest.

I'm sure others here have been through this conversion. Is there a site or can some one recommend the steps I need to take, and where I can find the correct parts.

[Carter]

Well, here is a start for you Wes but you will need a civ. oil pump to go with it to make it function correctly.

[WarrenD]

Why not go to an electronic ignition? No points to adjust, modern parts etc.

[DJ]

Sell the M37 and buy another Tahoe.

[topellis]

I got the Petronic electronic module that Charles Talbert sells and never looked back. My truck sits for a month or two at a time and as long as I prime the fuel pump/carb before I attempt to start it... it cranks right up. I do have a battery disconnect so that stray voltage can't drain the system. I didn't see any reason to spend money and time to change something that could be modified for reliability but externally look stock. Took about 20-30 min to do as I remember.

Good Luck,

Mark

[Carter]

I have the same thing from the same source as Top, starts every time, however using the waterproof system still requires pricey and not widely available Mil Std. plugs, wires, coil etc. which Wes seems not to want to continue to use.

[k8icu]

Well besides the changing to a civy distributor which as was mentioned requires you to change the oil pump, you will have either change or have the starter redone to 12V. You will need a new altinator thus removing the generator and voltage regulator. The gauges will have to all be changed to 12V as well as the dash lights, head lights, stop tail lights etc. If you have turn signals they will have to be replaced with a 12V system also.

Maybe you should look into the electronic ignition module cost vrs the cost of all the aboved mentioned parts. Of course it's your truck and your $$s so do as you want. Just make sure you write it up and provide plenty of pictures for us...

[ZGjethro]

I had M-series rebuild redo my carb and add a Pertronics electronic ignition to my truck. I ditched the oil bath filter and welded up a straight pipe air intake and stuck a K & N filter on it. I took off the mechanical fuel pump and added a Facet 24v fuel pump with a Holley pressure regulator. I still have a full 24v system, but it charges and runs fine, and if I will not be driving it for a while the batteries are hooked up to a 24v tender. I kind of like the sealed spark plug wires though, as hardly anyone I know has seen such a thing. These are some of the motor changes I have made. Next it is time to do the Ugly truckling disc brake modifications and get rid of the front drums.

I do have a box with all the original take-offs in it though.

[j mccormick]

I switched my M37 over to a civilian distributor, I did have to change the oil pump also. I also installed a 12V GM alternator, changed the gauges to mechanical gauges, put 12V bulbs in the military blackout lights, switched the head lights to 12V also. For the starter I ordered a 6V new starter from VPW because the 12V starter won't work with the M37 flywheel. A 6V starter turns the engine over faster on 12V and can handle the extra voltage. I"ve been very satisfied with the results, easier access in the engine bay, more simplicity and easy parts availability from local sources.

[refit1701]

For an oil pump, all you need is one off of a Chrysler or Plymouth 218 or 230 engine. Sealed Power #224-4160 is listed for a 3/4 ton Power Wagon.

I think you could solve some of those issues as posters above have suggested. Battery cutoff, battery tenders, non ethanol fuel, electric fuel pump, electronic distributor parts, etc.

But, it is your truck and you have to be happy. That is always rule number one.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Wes, I afraid your frustration is leading you in a direction you may regret more than what you have now. Honesty here, the 24-volt system is the best thing going, ESPECIALLY in the deep woods situation you described. Now it's obvious yours has some issues you are not seeing, these they keep on being issues for you.

I'm not trying to sell you anything; but if you will call me at the shop, 704-474-4683, I can offer you some pointers, things to check out and be able to ask you general questions about what you now have in place. I really think we can help you get past all this frustration without changing over to a system that will most likely make you hate yourself in the morning.

[Joe]

Well, here is a start for you Wes but you will need a civ. oil pump to go with it to make it function correctly.

Note that this distributor also uses a vacumm advance. Since the stock M37 doesn't supply the correct vacumm, this distributtor isn't going to work very well unless you change the mechanical advance in it. OR you could also put on a civvie carb that supplies the VA at the proper time.

VA is set up to deal with different engine load conditions. A light engine load will give a high vacumm and a lot of advance in the timing. Acceleration or heavy load will produce a weaker vacumm and less advance and prevent engine pinging. In addition, at idle, the butterfly valve in the carb is closed to below the vacumm port therefore no vacumm adcance at idle. If you use a VA distributor without the proper carb, you'll never get enough VA and the engine timing will run retarded at high speed and ruin your fuel econonmy.

[m37jarhead]

Wes, I afraid your frustration is leading you in a direction you may regret more than what you have now. Honesty here, the 24-volt system is the best thing going, ESPECIALLY in the deep woods situation you described. Now it's obvious yours has some issues you are not seeing, these they keep on being issues for you.

I'm not trying to sell you anything; but if you will call me at the shop, 704-474-4683, I can offer you some pointers, things to check out and be able to ask you general questions about what you now have in place. I really think we can help you get past all this frustration without changing over to a system that will most likely make you hate yourself in the morning.

Wes: Wise advice from Charles a M-Series Rebuild. While many others have made wholesale changes to M series 24V systems with
a lot of success, I have always run the stock 24V systems with success on ALL of my M series vehicles.Yes it does require a minor tune up twice a
year but that's not a very big deal for me. Charles may suggest an electronic ignition system. This might solve the majority of your
problems and give you the reliability you're looking for. Paper air filters are readily available and cheap. I get my batteries from Interstate
Battery. Always buy "blems" or "returns". $100.00 near new batteries I buy for $30 to $35. Never had a bad one. Other battery wholesalers
may have a similar deal. As mentioned, a battery cut off switch and elec. fuel pump may help too.
Jerry