Radiator Leak

[WarrenD]

Just noticed the radiator on my "new" 53 has 2 areas that are weeping. Not quite dripping, yet, though I haven't run it much as I'm still waiting on ins and reg. At some point, I'll be pulling it and either having it repaired or replaced, but in the mean time, I'd like to run it for the rest of the season (maybe 6-8 weeks). In the old days, we would use a little container of radiator stop leak (the granular type) for something like this. It is a temporary fix, for sure, but the last time I used it I recall getting almost 2 years of service out of the fix.
My question is, is that safe to use in the M37? I don't want to screw up the engine or water pump and cause more problems than I solve.
When looking for a radiator, do I need to get one M37 specific or are ones from a Powerwagon identical?
Thanks.

[powerwagontim]

M37 radiator is identical except for height, width and depth, and cap and filler locations. Other than that they are the same.
Tim

[WarrenD]

M37 radiator is identical except for height, width and depth, and cap and filler locations. Other than that they are the same.
Tim

Ok, Thanks

[HingsingM37]

Warren,
If all you have is some minor seepage and no core damage, I would have your old radiator serviced by a reputable shop. I had mine boiled out, flow checked, and painted for about $80. I would advise against using the stop-leak on these old flatheads, the cooling tube does not have big holes in it to begin with, and a clog could cause hot spots. There are repro M37 radiators out there, but i understand they are much lighter and junk.

[WarrenD]

Thanks for the info on the stop leak, the very reason I ask first. I'm more familiar with the older GM small block 8's and good to know more about the flathead 6's. One leeak is where the drain connects to the bottom of the radiator, the other is at the bottom of the outer tube passesnger side where it meets the bottom tank.
Right now, it's more a matter of time, I'd like to enjoy it a bit this year before laying it up for the winter when a week or two down time doesn't matter.

[WarrenD]

Ok, decision has been made. Getting a "new" radiator. Just got off the phone with Bob Stahl and he will take one of his used ones to a local shop for rebuild. The advantage is that the guy he uses has done many of these vs the local guy who didn't know what a M37 was. Ain't gonna be cheap but once and done.
Thanks all for the input, not using stop leak and I'm going to run it (keeping a jug of coolant handy) until I get the new cooler.

[Gerry]

Warren,
I know a local guy who does great work. He did my 37 and my M38.

[flobble]

I pulled mine out to have it flushed and pressure tested in the spring. Very reputable local guy who has done other people's in the club. Flushed it, pressure tested and a new cap, all for a whopping $27! Certainly couldn't go wrong there, as a side, I figured I'd check the distribution tube while the radiator was out. Found out that the tube was in perfect condition, but my water pump had two blades broken off of the impellor. Isn't it wonderful how these "simple" jobs turn into a lot more. On the good side, it's been 3 months and the old beast is running fantastic!

[8543bob]

GOOD MORNING,
Just so you have a comparison price; I had my radiator re-cored last spring, on Long Island, NY. cost was $475. For your info. BOB

[Tanner]

Odd that your local radiator guy wouldn't know what an M37 radiator is... a radiator is pretty much the same, regardless of the vehicle. Some fins and tubes and header tanks...

'Tanner'