m 37 brake bleeding

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wc16
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m 37 brake bleeding

Post by wc16 »

I have been trying to bleed the brakes on my truck using the "pedal down bleeder open-close bleeder pedal up add more fluid to master cylinder, etc" I can not get the air out of the system. Any one have this problem or have some ideas? thanks
cuz
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by cuz »

Are you getting air bubbles from any of the bleeders or the master cylinder still?
Wes K
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54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wc16
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by wc16 »

I am getting a mix of fluid and air not sure where the air is coming from
ZGjethro
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by ZGjethro »

I gave up on the two person "pump and hold" brake bleeding. I bought a Motive Products pressure bleeder a couple of years ago, and have bled all my vehicles with it. For the M37 I made a fitting which screws into the top of the brake reservoir. It also acts as my vent line. With this bleeder kit, you pump about 15 psi into the jug, go to your furthest wheel, and let the old fluid and bubbles run out until you see new fluid. Then proceed to the next furthest wheel from the master cylinder. You can make your own bleeder with any pump up pressure vessel such as a bug sprayer.
Brett
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by Brett »

I seem to never have a helper around when I'm bleeding brakes. So I use a super high tech device, an empty water bottle and a piece of wire. I use a piece of clear vinyl tubing about 2 ft long just the right size to fit on the bleeder I think 1/4". Stick the hose in the water bottle all the way to the bottom, add about 2" of brake fluid, wire it to the vehicle just higher than the bleeder. Start on the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Hook the hose to the bleeder and open it about one turn. Push the pedal down 3/4 of the way and release slowly. Do this several times then check the fluid in the resevoir. repeat this process until you see clean fluid in the tube with no bubbles. Then close the bleeder and move to the next wheel. With the end of the hose submerged, the air can get out, but won't get sucked back in, so no need to repeatedly open and close the bleeder. You'll need to dump the bottle every so often, just make sure the hose stays submerged, and you leave a couple of inches of fluid in the bottle. I have used this method for years, and can usually do a truck in about 15 min. I actually keep this contraption(fluid still in it) hanging on the wall in the shop.

Brett
cuz
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by cuz »

I am getting a mix of fluid and air not sure where the air is coming from
From which bleeders are you getting this mix from?
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
Rich
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by Rich »

wc16,
Just make sure that the vent from the master cylinder to the elbow on the intake horn is closed off. Also check the brass block on the front differential.
Are your brake lines new? Both rubber and metal? I also used the motive power bleeder to bleed my brakes.
Rich Szklany
cuz
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by cuz »

When gravity bleeding (not using pressure pot) that vent needs to be left open.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net

54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099

Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wc16
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Re: m 37 brake bleeding

Post by wc16 »

Thanks to all responders. I found a GI EIS metal drum pressure bleeder. It had the adapter to screw into the master cylinder. It is quick. Fresh fluid thruout. Probably could use some attention to cylinders cause it sits too long, but I think I am good to go In the veterans parade at the Iowa State Fair
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