used winch, what to look for?

[monkeymissile]

I recently got a great deal on a used LU-4 winch. According to the seller, the drum turns freely and the lever engages/disengages, but it hasn't arrived yet. What things (common problems) should I look for when I get it?
Any advice would be great, thanks!

Justin

[powerwagontim]

Was that the one on ebay or $305? I had the opening bid on that one, too good to let slip by at that price, but I didnt really need another one! Glad you got it (if its that one!)
I would get a seal and gasket set from Dave Cirillo (www.jobrated.com) and pull it apart and check the bronze gear. Actually you can check everything out then, but the bronze gear takes a lot of abuse. The TM has very good info on tearing down, inspecting and reassembling the winch.
Tim

[monkeymissile]

Ha ha, that was me Tim! Thanks for being a good sport about it too. That makes me appreciate the info all the more and will check it out once it arrives.

best,
Justin

[MSeriesRebuild]

There are several very touchy issues concerning building up a winch that runs true and does not leak oil; none of which are covered by the manual. It isn't hard if you know the guidelines and pay attention to the issues. The end housings must align perfectly or oil will leak. As always, don't use leather, old, or NOS seals, new fresh seals will be a far better bet. Call me if you need any pointers when you are ready to do reassembly.

[monkeymissile]

There are several very touchy issues concerning building up a winch that runs true and does not leak oil; none of which are covered by the manual. It isn't hard if you know the guidelines and pay attention to the issues. The end housings must align perfectly or oil will leak. As always, don't use leather, old, or NOS seals, new fresh seals will be a far better bet. Call me if you need any pointers when you are ready to do reassembly.

thanks Charles, appreciate it!

[MSeriesRebuild]

There are several very touchy issues concerning building up a winch that runs true and does not leak oil; none of which are covered by the manual. It isn't hard if you know the guidelines and pay attention to the issues. The end housings must align perfectly or oil will leak. As always, don't use leather, old, or NOS seals, new fresh seals will be a far better bet. Call me if you need any pointers when you are ready to do reassembly.

thanks Charles, appreciate it!

Be sure while going through the process that all seal mating surfaces and seal bores are in good shape. Not scratched, grooved, or otherwise damaged or pitted. You really have to look close at that, as the aluminum housings damage very easily.

[Josh]

Also, gear lash is critical, I know the bull gear in mine had been wiped out by the previous owner not setting the gear lash up right. The steel worm ate the bronze bull. Kind of a David and Goliath thing.

[chris olson]

Another thing to mention about bronze gears is to use the correct gear oil in the gear housing once you rebuild it.. some gear oils will attack the bronze (GL-5).. be sure to use a GL-4 (old school) gear oil with the correct viscosity.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Another thing to mention about bronze gears is to use the correct gear oil in the gear housing once you rebuild it.. some gear oils will attack the bronze (GL-5).. be sure to use a GL-4 (old school) gear oil with the correct viscosity.

Hypoid gear oil, or differential lube oil of any GL rating is incorrect. The correct lube is worm gear oil, ISO 460 rating. This can be obtained at any industrial lubricant dealer that carries a full product line. It is common, so no need in running an inferior lube oil in your winch worm gear housing. When empty, such as following a rebuild, each end housing holds 1 qt. of oil.