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With out opening a can of worms. What do you guys recommend. I did a search and came up confused. Charles I looked for your Synergyn oil but cant find it.
Thanks,
Tranny and transfer oil.
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Tranny and transfer oil.
Gerry
53 M37
53 M37
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MSeriesRebuild
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Re: Tranny and transfer oil.
Synergyn can be found at www.synergynracing.com I believe is correct. Rowlan Johnson is a very knowledgable tech person.Gerry wrote:With out opening a can of worms. What do you guys recommend. I did a search and came up confused. Charles I looked for your Synergyn oil but cant find it.
Thanks,
If you decide on Synergyn Products, they offer a 50 weight trans oil that I would recommend for both transmission and transfer case.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Tranny and transfer oil.
Charles,
I can only find it in 35 lbs barrels. Can you recommend something else?
Thanks,
I can only find it in 35 lbs barrels. Can you recommend something else?
Thanks,
Gerry
53 M37
53 M37
Re: Tranny and transfer oil.
GOOD MORNING,
I have found that a 75/25 mix of 85 gear oil and Lucas oil works great. The Lucas sticks to whatever it comes in contact with.. I use the Lucas to pre lube all my surfaces when putting a rebuild together. I just finished a rebuild on a Detroit 671, coated all moving parts with Lucas. Great start-up and hopefully will run "forever" Enjoy the day BOB
I have found that a 75/25 mix of 85 gear oil and Lucas oil works great. The Lucas sticks to whatever it comes in contact with.. I use the Lucas to pre lube all my surfaces when putting a rebuild together. I just finished a rebuild on a Detroit 671, coated all moving parts with Lucas. Great start-up and hopefully will run "forever" Enjoy the day BOB
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MSeriesRebuild
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
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Re: Tranny and transfer oil.
A 35# pail is only 5 gallons, that is enough for the initial fill and some left on hand for future use. I don't think they package it (50 weight) in any smaller container.
I'll have to disagree with Bob's blend; that mixture is to heavy for transmission or transfer case use. We also use a similar product in our assembly lube, but that is a totally different issue. Back to gear box specs; It will be so heavy that it will not flow like it needs too, and will adversely effect gear shifting, especially in cold weather. This can actually do damage because of oil not flowing freely enough to reach critical areas. Almost all trans builders now recommend oil that is about a 10W30 consistency; the older stuff like in the M37, they recommend either a 30, 40, or 50 weight straight grade oil. The 30 weight for cold climates, and the 40 and 50 weight for higher temps. The specs now days are to use a lighter, more free flowing oil. Experts in the business have told us that the move away from heavier grade oils in gear boxes has greatly improved gear and bearing longivity, makes for much easier shifting, etc. The newer technology in oil additive packages that are blended into today's lubricants has made this possible. In the old days, running heavier oils was a necessity because the oil got its cling from the heavy weight. Additive packages today have ingredients that give the lighter oils very aggressive tackiness that cause it to cling onto metal surfaces extremely well, they are actually very viscious when it comes to staying put on a surface. As a result, lighter, free flowing product counts for way better lubrication at all temps, less friction means a cooler running unit; less heat = much improved oil life and component life. This applies to all of the high end lubricants of today; Synergen, Hydrotex, Lucas, Red Line, Royal Purple, and a few others. Now if you are still buying at Wal-Mart, this info likely will not apply to your product. You are shooting yourself in the foot if you are still running cheaper oils and grease.
I'll have to disagree with Bob's blend; that mixture is to heavy for transmission or transfer case use. We also use a similar product in our assembly lube, but that is a totally different issue. Back to gear box specs; It will be so heavy that it will not flow like it needs too, and will adversely effect gear shifting, especially in cold weather. This can actually do damage because of oil not flowing freely enough to reach critical areas. Almost all trans builders now recommend oil that is about a 10W30 consistency; the older stuff like in the M37, they recommend either a 30, 40, or 50 weight straight grade oil. The 30 weight for cold climates, and the 40 and 50 weight for higher temps. The specs now days are to use a lighter, more free flowing oil. Experts in the business have told us that the move away from heavier grade oils in gear boxes has greatly improved gear and bearing longivity, makes for much easier shifting, etc. The newer technology in oil additive packages that are blended into today's lubricants has made this possible. In the old days, running heavier oils was a necessity because the oil got its cling from the heavy weight. Additive packages today have ingredients that give the lighter oils very aggressive tackiness that cause it to cling onto metal surfaces extremely well, they are actually very viscious when it comes to staying put on a surface. As a result, lighter, free flowing product counts for way better lubrication at all temps, less friction means a cooler running unit; less heat = much improved oil life and component life. This applies to all of the high end lubricants of today; Synergen, Hydrotex, Lucas, Red Line, Royal Purple, and a few others. Now if you are still buying at Wal-Mart, this info likely will not apply to your product. You are shooting yourself in the foot if you are still running cheaper oils and grease.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com