Paint Prep

[N1VSM]

I've recently (1+ year) been dabbling with electrolysis for rust/paint/crud removal from parts.

I use lye in the bath (electrolytic, not my own). After cleaning, I give each part a good wash-down with vinegar to neutralize the lye.
After that, a wash with something like Eastwood's "Metal Wash".
Followed by compatible self-etching primer, paint, etc.
So far, In the "expendable" parts that I've done, the paint jobs have held up solidly for a year or so, with no sign of further rust or corrosion.

Question for those who know more about paint prep & application than I:
Any immediate thoughts on my process? Am I missing any steps? Even though all looks well after a year of New England weather, am I setting myself up for future paint or part failure?

[m37jarhead]

I have no experience with the electrolytic lye system that you've been experimenting with. Sounds interesting and I hope you'll keep all of us posted on your findings. As we all know, rust is the common enemy on our trucks.

For many years I've used a product called Rust-Mort manufactured by SEM Products, Inc. Charlotte, NC. 704-522-1006.
Sells for about $15 a pint and is available at auto body and paint stores. It's basically an acid, mostly phosphoric acid, that attacks the chemical make up of rust and supposedly neutralizes the rust. Turns red rust into black rust. I follow the Rust-Mort treatment with P.O.R. or metal etching primer and top coat of o.d. One pint is a 100 year supply. It's thin and watery and does not take much to cover a large area. So far I've seen no bad results.

As a side note, ordinary automotive primer, including metal etching primer is porous once it's dry and will allow moisture to penetrate back to the surface metal. Rust will again start to form under the surface of your primer and you'll mostly not be able to see it. High ambient humidity is the culperate. The fix is using a primer sealer, keeping all primered surfaces as dry as you can and top coating/finish painting as soon as practical. I've mistakenly let primered metal be exposed to the elements and had to re-do the entire project.

Rust is the insidious enemy of all old vehicles. I'm not sure we can ever totaly cure that, only slow it down to an acceptable level. Maybe in our life time.

Hope others on this forum can chime in with their knowledge and experience.

[dotgain]

I have been using electrolysis to remove rust and paint.
Usually takes about a 24 hr. soak, removes rust and loosened paint making media blast quicker then I etch prime (I am still early in my build, haven't gotten that paint out yet)
Lots of info on the net. I am using a large rubber/plastic waste container, washing soda, 12VDC power supply, #12 copper house wire and about 8-10 lengths or iron rebar.
Be sure you are in a well ventilated area (produces hydrogen gas), also you want to use multiple anodes (iron rebar) because it works on line of sight, I rotate the pc. 45 degrees every 6 hours or so.
Works great, cheap and is hands off for the most part, just be sure to connect the negative terminal to the piece that you are cleaning otherwise will work in reverse and eat away at your part.

When I get to rewiring I'm going to look at nickel plating the Douglas Connectors.
Cheers,
Paul.

[Cal_Gary]

I've read a couple of articles regarding this stripping technique and from your post you appear to be dead-on the money. This technique is included in a book called "How to restore your collector car" by Tom Brownell. I've read the book a number of times which is why it was easy to recall the author's name (I'm at work).
Gary