Steering gear box rebuild
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- creinemann
- SGT
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:56 am
- Location: Jefferson, WI
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Steering gear box rebuild
I want to rebuild my steering box, I have already replaced tie rod ends, drag link, installed repair kits, but I still want to eliminate the play I have in my steering, which I have narrowed it down to the box. My question is, can the steering box be rebuilt? Or do I need to source a new steering box. I dont want the power steering, as I prefer to keep it as stock as possible. Are there rebuild kits out there? I saw that Vintage Power Wagon has a rebuit box for $300 but I need to do it a lot cheaper than that.
Carl Reinemann
1953 M37 USAAF
1953 M101 Trailer
1961 M416
Too many military collectibles to mention
http://m37.crwdesigns.com
M37 Restoration Site
http://dodgem37.com
http://facebook.com/creinemann
http://legendary-antiques.com
1953 M37 USAAF
1953 M101 Trailer
1961 M416
Too many military collectibles to mention
http://m37.crwdesigns.com
M37 Restoration Site
http://dodgem37.com
http://facebook.com/creinemann
http://legendary-antiques.com
Re: Steering gear box rebuild
Carl is your box still oil tight ? Have you tried to adjust the lash in the mesh ? When you turn the steering wheel does the sector shaft move back and forth before it actually moves the pittman arm? Another place to check would be the idler shaft pin and bushing.
My steering box bushing was badly worn and I got lucky and found a new empty box on ebay with a new bushing in it. I took my steering shaft and sector and put them in the new box. I got a new bearing and bottom plate from ABlinn on ebay. I got the shims and gaskets from Sid Beck but I am sure that you can get them elsewhere or make them. It was all much cheaper than 300. If you can't get an new empty box I think a machine shop can replace the big bushing on your original. You cannot get the seal for the stearing shaft but you can make one. You can get the seal for the sector shaft at a bearing and seal dealer. I can get that part# for you if you want it.
Hope this helps.
RIck
My steering box bushing was badly worn and I got lucky and found a new empty box on ebay with a new bushing in it. I took my steering shaft and sector and put them in the new box. I got a new bearing and bottom plate from ABlinn on ebay. I got the shims and gaskets from Sid Beck but I am sure that you can get them elsewhere or make them. It was all much cheaper than 300. If you can't get an new empty box I think a machine shop can replace the big bushing on your original. You cannot get the seal for the stearing shaft but you can make one. You can get the seal for the sector shaft at a bearing and seal dealer. I can get that part# for you if you want it.
Hope this helps.
RIck
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
Re: Steering gear box rebuild
seal number and explication on how to make the seal would be great!
Re: Steering gear box rebuild
Carl, as Rick said, I hope your box is still oil tight as mine wasnt and it was just a pile of rust inside and too far gone to fix. It was almost impossible to steer and the steering was real sloppy.
I went the power steering route and have never looked back.
Cheers
I went the power steering route and have never looked back.
Cheers
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
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Re: Steering gear box rebuild
I just rebuilt mine. John Bizal at Midwest Military had everything I needed, seals, a bearing, gaskets etc. Works like a charm!
Tim
Tim
Happiness is enjoying what you already have!
Re: Steering gear box rebuild
If you can get all the parts from John, that is the best approach. Make sure you take a micrometer and check your sector shaft and the clearance of the bushing in the box for a close fit. It should be within a few thousanths. The exact amount is in the chapter on the box in the power train body and frame manual. If not the new seal will eventually start to leak. When I did mine the upper seal where the steering shaft comes out was no longer available. So I made one . If you don't put a seal there oil will walk up the shaft and spill out the top. Do buy a new bottom plate as there is a seal solderd in place that you can't change. The originals had two plates with a gasket in between the new ones are a single piece and easier to install. John probably has those also.
One more thing is don't put grease in your new rebuilt box. It's made for liquid.
One more thing is don't put grease in your new rebuilt box. It's made for liquid.
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506