12 volt ignition failure?

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:33 pm

Well my new bought 1952 M37 didn't start yesterday. I can check for spark at the plug ( never saw a plug like this one) Is there anything particularly special about this ignition system? Where on the distributor does the wire connect from the ignition switch? Help ! Peter Mark

nivek · Post by **nivek** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 8:36 pm

With some photos the crew here can help you with specifics.

Need help with hosting and posting, let me know please. I have time to help get your pics up and on.line here.

With your particular problems, our Little Green Trucks have been worked on, changed and often "done halfway" that giving advise is tough until we know what you are working with parts wise.

kL

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:46 am

peter e mark wrote:Well my new bought 1952 M37 didn't start yesterday. I can check for spark at the plug ( never saw a plug like this one) Is there anything particularly special about this ignition system? Where on the distributor does the wire connect from the ignition switch? Help ! Peter Mark

If you are standing on the distributor side of the engine, the wire from the iginition is down low connected into the RF filter, however not sure if the earlier M37's had RF filters, so yours may be hooked directly to the distributor in some other fashion but should still be in that area. Unscrew the wire and check with your master switch on by putting hot lead of a multimeter in the ignition wire receptacle and the ground to the block and that will tell you if you have juice coming as far as the dist.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:38 am

Nickathome wrote:
peter e mark wrote:Well my new bought 1952 M37 didn't start yesterday. I can check for spark at the plug ( never saw a plug like this one) Is there anything particularly special about this ignition system? Where on the distributor does the wire connect from the ignition switch? Help ! Peter Mark
If you are standing on the distributor side of the engine, the wire from the iginition is down low connected into the RF filter, however not sure if the earlier M37's had RF filters, so yours may be hooked directly to the distributor in some other fashion but should still be in that area. Unscrew the wire and check with your master switch on by putting hot lead of a multimeter in the ignition wire receptacle and the ground to the block and that will tell you if you have juice coming as far as the dist.

Early or late style waterproof distributors have the ignition switch lead, attached at the same place in the same manner. The early distributors have the filter/capacitor on the fire wall utilizing interconnecting cables of the shielded type. The later distributors use an internally mounted filter/capacitor with a 14 gauge wire going directly from the ignition switch to the distributor plug. This would be wire #12.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:09 am

Well thank you all for this input. If I don't get home too late,Tonight I hope to identify this wire coming from the ignition switch and I do have a volt meter. If I do have power there I will dare to go into the distributor and hopefully find power at the points also. John Bizal of Mid West Military has given me the evil eye for buying a truck converteed to 12 volt Told him I will convert back to 24, but not in 10 degree weather.( no heat ) Good luck to me...Peter

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:55 am

Well folks, I spoke to John from Midway, And it looks like i'm converting the truck back to 24 volt afterall ! That 12 volt starter sounded like stiff bearings anyway. Can't resist good advice. ..

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:32 am

peter e mark wrote:Well folks, I spoke to John from Midway, And it looks like i'm converting the truck back to 24 volt afterall ! That 12 volt starter sounded like stiff bearings anyway. Can't resist good advice. ..

While changing back to the original distributor, installing an electronic engine module is highly recommended, way more dependable than points, delivers much hotter spark, greatly reduced maintenance.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:16 am

HHmmm, I remember a horror movie when I was a child by the name of " The Wolf Man" And the otherwise soft spoken gentleman in that movie who played this part was named Talbert too. Are you the wolf man reincarnate? :twisted: [/i]

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:40 pm

peter e mark wrote:HHmmm, I remember a horror movie when I was a child by the name of " The Wolf Man" And the otherwise soft spoken gentleman in that movie who played this part was named Talbert too. Are you the wolf man reincarnate? [/i]

Well not that I know of, watching horror movies was never my thing thus I'm not up to speed on the happenings with them.

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:29 pm

Careful Peter.... you are in between 2 of the M-Gods....you may get cast to drive the M37 on the L.I.E. during rush hour with 1/2 gal of fuel.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:57 am

No, No , Not the L.I.E. ! ...Just joking folks. I thank you all again because I was able to remove the distributor cap, identify the wire coming from my ignition switch, and adjust the points. Now I know why they make those little mirrors ! Placed my order for parts, but I think I will stay with the original points system. Hey, John Bizal even talked me into converting back to 24 Volt. He's a good man. ..Peter Mark

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:05 am

And now, technical post readers, I have completed , or shall I say exhausted, every seeming possible avenue of diagnostic review of M37 ignition system operation verification. It is, however, most disheartening that I must report continued fairure in this endeavor. Admitting to the frequent accusation by my automotive aquatences as to having an "old fashioned" approach to repair, I remain and by which I insist on finding the sprecific componant failure, much to the consternation of, these contemporaries, who just change out parts, I am at a standstill ! The situation having reached a critical stage, and threatening phychotic or otherwise hysterical reactions as previously posted, I am left with the unbearable choice of guessing the problem, that being a faulty distributor. Unless inspired, spontainously enlightened or otherwise visited by unconventional wisdom, I am off to Johnny B's websight.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:39 am

As fate would have it, I did call John as planned,and mentioned, just in passing, that the breaker plate was, loose, movable or otherwise unfastened. There was an uncomfortable moment of silence...And In a deep pajoritive voice John said: "That's your problem boy, a loss of ground due to missing breaker plate fastereners". The "inner voice" told me it was something simple. The problem with my inner voice is that it ain't specific enough. Hey, I only waited 12 hours. So now I know close to everything about this ignition system...Oh FEDEX, how soon can you get this package to Midwest Military?

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:50 am

"Now, that there's funny! I don't care who you are!"
(Larry the Cable Guy)

Glad you got it figured out. My experience with electrical problems is that they're nearly always some trivial little thing, the most common being a loose connection or a bad ground.

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:02 am

Hi Larry, I can't wait to get the distributor back. Wan''t to run this devil. And budget permitting, I want to install air lockers front AND rear ! Oh well, that's a diiferent post...Peter Mark

12 volt ignition failure?

12 volt ignition failure?

p e m, can you take digital pictures of problem?

Re: 12 volt ignition failure?

Re: 12 volt ignition failure?