ENGINE REMOVAL

[8543bob]

GOOD MORNING ALL, I AM GETTING READY TO PULL MY ENGINE, TODAY OR TOMORROW, AND REPLACE THE CRANK AND #6 CONNECTING ROD; A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS: I WOULD LIKE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND LEAVE THE TRANSMISSION SUPPORTED AND IN PLACE, IS THER A PROBLEM WITH THAT?? LOOKING OVER THE JOB, IT JUST SEEMS EASIER. AFTER THE ENGINE IS OUT AND ON THE STAND, I NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING CHAIN COVER; I HAVE THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY OFF AND I AM FACED WITH THE HAD CRANK RECEIVER. IT SEEMS TO BE NUTTED TO THE CRANK, CAN I PULL THE PART THAT THE CRANSHAFT PULLY IS BOLTED TO WITH THE HAND CRANK RECEIVER IN PLACE? OR DO I HAVE TO REMOVE THE 1" NUT HOLDING THE RECEIVER IN PLACE??
THANKS BOB

[Cal_Gary]

Hi Bob,
I'd pull both at the same time. Trying to align the pilot shaft thru the release bearing and clutch on install with your tranny linkages and such still in place could cause difficulty. There is ample space to pull the tranny and engine together since there is so much removable floorboard / firewall to provide plenty of clearance. If you're trying to eliminate pulling floorboards, linkages, and drive shaft by leaving the tranny in place, that means you'll be under it, on your back, on a creeper, trying to realign the tranny thru the clutch while your buddy (or buddies) work the engine in from above. Check the 8030 manual for a nice shot of the radiator/engine/tranny all pulled as a single unit.

I haven't dealt with the crankshaft nut, but I have to believe this would need to be removed first before pulling the harmonic balancer.
Gary

[8543bob]

THANKS GARY, AS I WAS UNBOLTING, IT BECAME CLEAR THAT THE ENGINE/TRANS SHOULD BE PULLED AS A UNIT. ALL THE BOLTS AND PINS CAME OFF WITHOUT A PROBLEM. GONNA LIFT IT OUT TOMORROW

[MSeriesRebuild]

The only way to fly is pulling the engine and trans as a unit. You will hate yourself in the morning doing it any other way, trust me. Remove both front fenders, grill section, and the radiator before you start.

You didn't need to remove the crank pulley from the hub, you must remove the crank jaw, then you can pull the hub/pulley assembly with a puller. There is no harmonic balancer. Once the hub is off the crank, you will need to remove the front engine mount bracket, then the oil pan. The timing chain cover will come next. The sprocket will need to come off the camshaft by removing 3 bolts holding it onto the hub, remove the sprocket and chain together. Now you can remove the cover mounting plate from the front of the block, beware it has bolts that must be accessed from the back side, this is why the pan must come first. Before dropping the main bearing caps, be sure to mark caps 2 and 3 with a prick punch so the caps can be put back in the exact same positions, front and rear caps only go 1 way. These can not change positions in any way, shape, or form, unless you plan to line bore the block / bearing cap assembly. Be extremely careful installing a new rear main oil seal, do it right or it will leak. Best case will be annoying, worst case will get oil on the clutch, take your time and do it right. Do not use the old rope type seal. If you need further help, just ask.

[8543bob]

CHARLES, THANKS FOR THE INFO AND SEQUENCE OF TEAR DOWN. I WILL PULL THE ENG/TRANS AS A UNIT AND REMOVE THE CRANK, HOPEFULLY TODAY, AND GET IT TO THE MACHINE SHOP. I HAVE A CONNECTING ROD COMING FROM MID WEST MELITARY, THEY WERE VERY GOOD, I DID NOT KNOW THE ODD AND EVEN CONNECTING RODS WERE DIFFERENT. AGAIN TANKS TO ALL BOB

[Rick C]

Charles, while on the subject....anything to take into account when pulling the Engine/Tranny with a PTO on?
Rick

[MSeriesRebuild]

Charles, while on the subject....anything to take into account when pulling the Engine/Tranny with a PTO on?
Rick

Nothing at all, there is room for the PTO to clear while it remains on the transmission.

[8543bob]

GOOD MORNIG ALL. MY COMPUTER HAS BEEN DOWN FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS; BUT ANY HOW. THE ENGINE/TRANY CAME OUT WITHOUT A PROBLEM, NOT ONE BUSTED OR STRIPPED BLOT. THEY HAVE BEEN THERE SINCE 1952, WOW!!
THE CRANK IS AT THE MACHINE SHOP AND THE NEW CONNECTING ROD IS IN HAND. SO AS SOON AS THE CRANK COMES BACK I CAN RE-ASSEMBLE. THE ONLY PIECE I AM MISSING IS THE SHORT EXHAUST PIPE THAT BOLTS TO THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. THE ONE ON THE ENGINE HAS A WHOLE IN IT.. I CANTSEEM TO LOCATE ONE, MAYBE I CAN WELD A PATCH ON IT , BUT WOULD LOVE TO REPLACE IT. ANY IDEAS WHERE I CAN FIND ONE??
THANKS
BOB

[Brett]

I beleive I have a used one. I'd let it go pretty cheap. Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll get you some pics.

Brett

[8543bob]

GOOD MORNING,
A COUPLE OF OBSERVATIONS; RE THE ENGINE ONCE IT WAS TORN DOWN. I THINK I HAD ASKED A QUESTION IN A PREVIOUS POST CAN THE PISTONS, #6 BE REMOVED FROM THE BOTTOM. WELL IT CANT BECAUSE THE SKIRT WOULD HIT THE BLOCK AND PREVENT REMOVAL, AND THE BOTTOM RING WOULD BE OUT THE BORE, NOW THERE IS A PROBLEM. THE REST COULD BE?? I HEARD FROM THE MACHINE SHOP YESTERDAY; THE #6 C/R JOURNAL IS .040 UNDER THE REST, WHICH ARE DOWN TO .030. SO SOME WELDING IS IN ORDER. WHEN I UNBOLTED ALL THE CAPS TO REMOVE THE CRANK, THE C/R BEARINGS WERE DOWN TO THE COPPER. THE ENGINE, ACCORDING TO THE PLATE ON THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK WAS REMAN IN '81, THE TRUCK SHOWS 22,000 MILES. WHY WOULD THE C/R BEARINGS BE SO WORN?? THE MAINS LOOKED GREAT. THERE WAS NO RIGE ON THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER WALLS. SO THE PISTON CAME OUT EASY. BUT THE TOP COMPRESSION RING WAS BROKEN IN TWO SPOTS.. ALSO FOUND THE WATER PUMP HAD BEEN LEAKING, THE CLUTCH PLATE WAS DOWN TO THE RIVITS THE THROW OUT BEARING WAS ROUGH. SO THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT IS; ITS TAKING MORE TIME THAN IEXPECTED AND MORE PARTS THAN I THOUGHT TO GET MY TRUCK BACK ON THE ROAD, BUT IT WAS A GRANADE, RUNNING IT AS IT WAS. I DID THE ENGINE REUILD BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WOULD TAKE LESS TIME THAN TO DO THE DIESEL CONVERSION, I WANTED THE TRUCK FOR THE SUMMER. I HAVE ALL THE PARTS IN HAND, BRETT CAME THROUGH WITH THE EXHAUST PIPE I NEEDED. JUST WAITING ON THE CRANK. I AM FIGURING IT WILL COME BACK AT .040 UNDER. MAYBE BEGINNING PART OF THIS WEEK. I HOPE I REMEMBER HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!! WILL LET YOU KNOW.

[Sal]

Bob. Don't forget to check out the water tube behind the water pump while you have it all apart.

[MSeriesRebuild]

GOOD MORNING,
A COUPLE OF OBSERVATIONS; RE THE ENGINE ONCE IT WAS TORN DOWN. I THINK I HAD ASKED A QUESTION IN A PREVIOUS POST CAN THE PISTONS, #6 BE REMOVED FROM THE BOTTOM. WELL IT CANT BECAUSE THE SKIRT WOULD HIT THE BLOCK AND PREVENT REMOVAL, AND THE BOTTOM RING WOULD BE OUT THE BORE, NOW THERE IS A PROBLEM. THE REST COULD BE?? I HEARD FROM THE MACHINE SHOP YESTERDAY; THE #6 C/R JOURNAL IS .040 UNDER THE REST, WHICH ARE DOWN TO .030. SO SOME WELDING IS IN ORDER. WHEN I UNBOLTED ALL THE CAPS TO REMOVE THE CRANK, THE C/R BEARINGS WERE DOWN TO THE COPPER. THE ENGINE, ACCORDING TO THE PLATE ON THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK WAS REMAN IN '81, THE TRUCK SHOWS 22,000 MILES. WHY WOULD THE C/R BEARINGS BE SO WORN?? THE MAINS LOOKED GREAT. THERE WAS NO RIGE ON THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER WALLS. SO THE PISTON CAME OUT EASY. BUT THE TOP COMPRESSION RING WAS BROKEN IN TWO SPOTS.. ALSO FOUND THE WATER PUMP HAD BEEN LEAKING, THE CLUTCH PLATE WAS DOWN TO THE RIVITS THE THROW OUT BEARING WAS ROUGH. SO THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT IS; ITS TAKING MORE TIME THAN IEXPECTED AND MORE PARTS THAN I THOUGHT TO GET MY TRUCK BACK ON THE ROAD, BUT IT WAS A GRANADE, RUNNING IT AS IT WAS. I DID THE ENGINE REUILD BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WOULD TAKE LESS TIME THAN TO DO THE DIESEL CONVERSION, I WANTED THE TRUCK FOR THE SUMMER. I HAVE ALL THE PARTS IN HAND, BRETT CAME THROUGH WITH THE EXHAUST PIPE I NEEDED. JUST WAITING ON THE CRANK. I AM FIGURING IT WILL COME BACK AT .040 UNDER. MAYBE BEGINNING PART OF THIS WEEK. I HOPE I REMEMBER HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!! WILL LET YOU KNOW.

It is typical to see less than desirable rebuild work when a government rebuild tag is displayed. The fact that one journal was cut more than the rest creates an out of balance issue. I would certainly have the crank (with flywheel and pressure plate installed) and the rods balanced before building the engine back, it will no doubt be off spec for quite a distance. Who knows about the quality of workmanship from the last builder, were the clearances done right on rod bearings, all questions that can't be answered at this point. My advice from here is build it back right or you may wind up with some similar premature wear related issues in only a few miles like you have already experienced this time. Using a top quality oil in a 15-40 grade and changing it like you should is imperative also.

[8543bob]

MOST OF THE PARTS FOR RE-ASSEMBLY ARE ON HAND, INCLUDING THE MACHINED CRANK. THE TOP HALF OF THE ENG WENT BACK TOGETHER YESTERDAY. WHILE I HAD THE ENG OUT AND APART, I AM REPLACING THE WATER PUMP, CLUTCH PLATE, RELEASE BEARING, PILOT BUSHING, AND ALL SEALS. A QUESTION ON THE RELEASE BEARING; THE RELEASE BEARING IS ON THE RELEASE BEARING SLEAVE. IS IT PRESSED ON OR SHOULD I BE ABLE TO PULL IT OFF? IT SEEMS LIKE I WILL NEED MORE THAN MY HANDS TO SEPERATE THEM. WHEN I INSTALL THE NEW ONE, IF I HAVE TO PRESS IT ON, WILL IT DAMAGE THE BEARING CASE??
THANKS BOB

[MSeriesRebuild]

MOST OF THE PARTS FOR RE-ASSEMBLY ARE ON HAND, INCLUDING THE MACHINED CRANK. THE TOP HALF OF THE ENG WENT BACK TOGETHER YESTERDAY. WHILE I HAD THE ENG OUT AND APART, I AM REPLACING THE WATER PUMP, CLUTCH PLATE, RELEASE BEARING, PILOT BUSHING, AND ALL SEALS. A QUESTION ON THE RELEASE BEARING; THE RELEASE BEARING IS ON THE RELEASE BEARING SLEAVE. IS IT PRESSED ON OR SHOULD I BE ABLE TO PULL IT OFF? IT SEEMS LIKE I WILL NEED MORE THAN MY HANDS TO SEPERATE THEM. WHEN I INSTALL THE NEW ONE, IF I HAVE TO PRESS IT ON, WILL IT DAMAGE THE BEARING CASE??
THANKS BOB

It presses off, but is an easy press. going back on won't be an issue either.

[8543bob]

HEY CHARLES,
THANKS