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Good evening to all. Can anyone tell me what all requirements there are to operate in the fording/snorkling mode? I know you have to install the fording breather which I have, but what all has to be sealed to enable it to be used in this mode?
We were struck pretty hard with flooding in my hometown in Tennessee and the M37 I own used to be a part of the local Civil Defense and I plan on making it water-proofed in case of a future need. Thanks in advance.
Phillip
ps: Hope all the bugs are out of the site now. Been having withdrawals without the site.
Snorkling requirements
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
You need the exhaust stack also, the 2 fording valves and fording cable, and all of the waterproof electric components of course. What does your truck currently have? Is it 24 volt now with the proper distributor? If so I would definitely replace the 0-ring that seals the outer cap to the distributor body. Keep a good check up on the drivetrain fluids when using in water, it can get in very easily.
Glenn,
Thanks for the response. Original 24 volt system. Check on the exhaust. Will replace the O ring on the distributor. Where do the fording valves go and what do they do? What specifically do the electric components consist of? S
Sorry to pick your brain, but I am totally blank on the fording issue.
Phillip
Thanks for the response. Original 24 volt system. Check on the exhaust. Will replace the O ring on the distributor. Where do the fording valves go and what do they do? What specifically do the electric components consist of? S
Sorry to pick your brain, but I am totally blank on the fording issue.
Phillip
One valve is in the crankcase ventilation line below the intake manifold, and the other is on the line that runs from the oil fill tube to the air intake elbow. The fording cable when pulled closes both of them and pressurizes the engine to keep water out. Instead of positive crankcase ventilation you have positive pressure. I've heard it can blow the front pulley seal pretty quickly if left closed when not fording. I just meant all the electrics have to be in good shape, plug wires, wiring harness, generator, regulator, etc.
I'm no expert of the fording system so bear with me but there's also the pull out knob on the dash that controls the carburator float bowl vent and there's a manual valve on the brake master cylinder that has to be manually opened and closed. Also there are a number of vent lines that must be installed and functional. Fuel tank vent and, I think, vents on both axles also possibly on the transfer case and transmission.
BTW you are aware that after you take it 'swimming' that you have to take the hubs off and completely inspect the wheel bearings, axles, ALL gear housings including transmission, transfer case, differentials, engine oil, etc for any signs of water intrusion. Not sure if they tell you to inspect the brake fluid reservoir but you probably should. Same story for the two gear housings on the winch. It's a lot of work just to go play in the water!
OH, and I didn't realize this till Charles pointed it out but the water tight top of the air cleaner should be removed and stowed after 'swimming'. I always thought that they stayed on all the time but that's incorrect.
BTW you are aware that after you take it 'swimming' that you have to take the hubs off and completely inspect the wheel bearings, axles, ALL gear housings including transmission, transfer case, differentials, engine oil, etc for any signs of water intrusion. Not sure if they tell you to inspect the brake fluid reservoir but you probably should. Same story for the two gear housings on the winch. It's a lot of work just to go play in the water!
OH, and I didn't realize this till Charles pointed it out but the water tight top of the air cleaner should be removed and stowed after 'swimming'. I always thought that they stayed on all the time but that's incorrect.