Compressor for sandblasting

skinnedknuckles · Post by **skinnedknuckles** » Tue Mar 16, 2010 5:02 am

Last year when I needed to blast my frame, rims and a bunch of other stuff I came out to my big truck shop and used our Ingersol Rand 185 compressor.
That thing puts out 185 cfm and I use a 100 lb pressurized sand pot. I went through 2000 lbs of sand pretty fast, and I did it down in our sand pit so I didn't have to clean up the mess. This year I built a small catch area so I can blast and reclaim more sand. In order to blast sheet metal I have to stand 3' back to prevent warpage . For sand I use silica sand ( HEED ALL WARNINGS ON THIS STUFF !!!) that I get from my local blacktop sealer company- way cheaper that way instead of buying from home centers. I have a fresh air hood that I wear to prevent breathing the silca particles ( same one that I use for black beauty sand as it has silica too ). At home I use two 5 hp compressors rated at 11.5 cfm each for my blast cabinet , that does a good job of keeping up. If you have an aluminum compressor it won't last too long if it has to run constantly you might want to put a electric fan by it to help cooling. If you can find someone that can blasts with a large compressor and their prices aren't too steep it would end up saving you a bunch of time ,money and headaches cleaning up the mess.
Paul in Janesville, Wis
1953 m37
1961 m37b1
1966 m101a2
1971 m35a2 4x4 w/w
1971 m35a2 6x6 wo/w
and a bunch of Jeeps
MVPA and MVPG

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:13 pm

will report back on how it is when I get it... ORdered it yesterday, should be here and wired in in a week or two.

Nickathome · Post by **Nickathome** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:18 am

Josh wrote:will report back on how it is when I get it... ORdered it yesterday, should be here and wired in in a week or two.

Looks like a winner. Let us know how it works out.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:38 am

I'm waiting to hear the results as well.

Carter · Post by **Carter** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:45 am

That looks like a good one and the price is right.

m-11 · Post by **m-11** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:35 am

Good topic, I'm in the midst of blasting my truck. I'm fortunate enough to have access to a compressor and blaster at work but have been looking into buying my own setup because trailering the chassis and cab 30 miles is going to be a PITA. Right now I'm using glass media and the medium size blast cabinet at work for small items. I spend 50hrs a week at work already so going in on the weekends to do blasting for myself sucks, but it's free.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 5:26 pm

how does glass compare to sand? I've heard some bad, bad things about paint adhesion with Soda blasting, so I have ruled that out. The idea of sand makes me cringe, but so does the cost of something like dupont starblast... A happy medium, no pun intended, in my mind is glass.

m-11 · Post by **m-11** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:40 pm

Glass media is good for removing corrosion and a few layers of paint but if you have several layers of paint than sand is the quickest way to blast. Sand is more aggressive than glass and will remove metal quick so you don't want to concentrate in one area for a long time. Just keep the wand moving. I'll be using sand on my truck.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:21 pm

Depends on the material you need to remove. If you have rust, sand is about the only good media. If rust isn't an issue, and you only have to remove paint and primer, plastic media is a God send. No chance of heat build up and metal warpage like with sand, and it leaves a perfect smooth surface on the metal, not pitted as with sand. Unless we are dealing with rust removal, we use the plastic almost exclusively. Saves time and labor that is spent later during the restoration process.

Gerry · Post by **Gerry** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:35 pm

What is the name plastic goes by? also is there less worry about the dust, although all that lead paint is still bad

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:56 pm

well, compressor progress is moving forward. Got the box, breakers, wire, and conduit. Tried calling the local building codes people SEVERAL times but never could get ahold of anyone that knew what they were talking about (shocker) so I said screw it and stuck it in the ground about 14" down. Poked the wire through the wall where the current garage wire comes through, so that was good, saved me time, and drilling another hole in my house foundation.

Took me 3 hours to dig the trench, then another 2 to bury it. I dont think thats too bad... 60 feet in 3 hours! getting past that lilac bush SUCKED! You guys shoulda seen the roots on that beast.

Post by **T. Highway** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:20 am

Digging around roots is always tough.
NEC states 18" depth, unless local or state law requires different. This branch feeder should of exited the house above grade and entered the garage above grade. Did you use a wire rated for direct burial? (Type UF)

jjefferson · Post by **jjefferson** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:25 am

Hey Josh

If you have not buried the line yet - add a length of twine or fishing line - just in case you ever need to pull another piece of wire thru the conduit in the future. That will save you lots of frustration in the future.

I always add two pieces of extra line / fish tape - just in case I need to pull more.

Jim

jjefferson · Post by **jjefferson** » Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:45 am

I also always add a layer of flagging tape just below the surface. That way if you or someone else is digging in the future it serves to remind you of what is down there.

I have dug up (by accident) a couple main 440 power lines with the backhoe that were not marked. Luckily I never nicked or severed them. Otherwise ZAP.

On the same note have picked up a few old ww2 power cables and submarine degaussing cables with the ships anchor. Those are always fun to remove from the anchor.

Jim

Compressor for sandblasting

Have you considered plastic media?