Home Last nite I had the m37 up on jack stand, nothing is wrong, suppose i had a little cabin fever and was board.. well the truck was in out of gear and i happen to turn the back left tire and the right one turned also. This doesnt seem typical of an open differential, could it be posi track or locker? Oh.. the same deal with the front...
One more.. Man this deal with not being able to get my foot up to the clutch is kill me. I'm not a terrible huge man 6'2" 250. However it is a real hassle to get my knee wedged in between the door and the steering wheel to disengage the clutch. Its bad i have thought of cutting the pedal down a couple of inches.. Is there something i can adjust. any ideas would be helpful.. Thanks men
Positive traction or Lockers?
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Montanaorbust
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Montanaorbust
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This is the only pic i have, to bad my big ass is in the way, or we could see the seat... It appears to be the original.. Where did you get your thin seat rixm37? Will take pic tonight and post..
This is the only pic i have, to bad my big ass is in the way, or we could see the seat... It appears to be the original.. Where did you get your thin seat rixm37? Will take pic tonight and post..
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captain kirk
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Montanaorbust
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Master Yota
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With the truck off the stand - engage the park brake to prevent the driveshafts from turning. With the prop shaft locked in place attempt to turn the tires. As Drew has indicated an open diff will turn the tires in the opposing directions.
A lockright (only mechanical locker available) may resist turning at all (tire won't move) or may turn one tire only but you'll hear a ratcheting or clicking noise comming from the diff as the locker teeth move past each other. The ARB air locker is also available, but the dead giveaway is the air line running to the diff to activate the locker.
If both tires move in the same direction all the time without the park brake on (drive shaft moves freely) then its possible that a previous owner may have "lincoln locked" or welded the spider gears together in the carrier to achieve 100% traction all the time. This method works just like a spool - no differential action takes place at all.
There are no limited slip or positraction differentials available for these trucks.
Hope this helps.
A lockright (only mechanical locker available) may resist turning at all (tire won't move) or may turn one tire only but you'll hear a ratcheting or clicking noise comming from the diff as the locker teeth move past each other. The ARB air locker is also available, but the dead giveaway is the air line running to the diff to activate the locker.
If both tires move in the same direction all the time without the park brake on (drive shaft moves freely) then its possible that a previous owner may have "lincoln locked" or welded the spider gears together in the carrier to achieve 100% traction all the time. This method works just like a spool - no differential action takes place at all.
There are no limited slip or positraction differentials available for these trucks.
Hope this helps.
Ray
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
1953 CDN. M37
1954 CDN. M152
Montanaorbust
Have you made sure your seat is all the way back on the seat rails? That might help some.
I will post a pic later of my seat back. I am gonna be gone all day. But it was made by the previous owner. It's only about an 1 1/2 inch thick and curved to the same angle as the seat bucket back. It's not the most comfortable for long haul but you get much more leg room . my stock seat back is square and is several inches thick and shoves me too far forward.
Have you made sure your seat is all the way back on the seat rails? That might help some.
I will post a pic later of my seat back. I am gonna be gone all day. But it was made by the previous owner. It's only about an 1 1/2 inch thick and curved to the same angle as the seat bucket back. It's not the most comfortable for long haul but you get much more leg room . my stock seat back is square and is several inches thick and shoves me too far forward.
1952 M37
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
M101 trailer
1942 Chevy G506
Does your truck have small blocks of wood mounted to the underside of the floor board? Many of the trucks out there have had that done to them. Not everyone is in agreement as to why they were added, but as many as are out there, I think it was done in the motor pool to limit the return travel of the clutch and brake pedal to make it easier on long legged drivers. I'm 6'3" and if my truck didn't have the blocks I don't think I could get my foot on the brake or clutch. Also alot of guys have taken them off during resto so you may actually have a couple holes where the screws were. Just a little food for thought.
Brett
Brett
AS FAR AS I REMEMBER, THE CLUTCH PEDAL DOES ADJUST. IT PIVOTS ON THE SAME AXLE WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL AND IT HAS TWO BOLTS AGAINST EACH OTHER THROUGH WHICH YOU CAN PUSH IT OR PULL IT A BIT. DO NOT EXPECT LOTS OF DIFERANCE THOUGH. AS FAR AS THE SEAT GOES. FIRST AS RICK MENTIONED MAKE SURE THE GUIDE RAILS UNDERNEATH IT MOVE FREELY AND THAT THE SEAT IS ALL THE WAY TO THE BACK. CUSHION WISE, MY SEAT WHEN I GOT MY M HAD NO CUSHION ON THE BUTT, AND ONLY THE WOODEN FRAME IN THE BACK. SO WHAT I DID WAS I BOUGHT A THIN FOAM PAD FOR THE BUTT SPRINGS AND A 1 INCH FOAM FOR THE BACK. PUT THEM UNDER THE NEW PIECE OF CANVAS AND STAPLED THE CANVAS IN PLACE. THERE WAS PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE LEGS, PLUS THE LOWERED BUTT PIECE GAVE ME BETTER CLEARANCE ON MY SIGHT LINE LOWER FROM THE WINDSHIELD WHIPER. I TOO AM 6.02, AND AT SOME POINT I WHEIGHED 300 LBS. AFTER THAT MOD MY ISSUE WAS MY BELLY RUBBING AGAINST THE WHEEL AND NOT LEGROOM PROBLEMS. FINALY, AFTER 7 YEARS I DECIDED TO RETIRE THE STOCK SEATS AND INSTALLED A SET OF VAN SEATS 35/65 SPLIT, WHICH YOU CAN SEE IN MY ALBUM SOTIRIOS VENETIS HERE. I THINK THE IMPROVEMENT WAS VAST IN ALL ASPECTS, BUT IT IS NOT HISTORICALLY CORRECT. AS FOR THE WHEELS TURNING BOTH THE SAME WAY, I AM AFRAID THAT THE DIFFERENTIALS WERE WELDED TOGETHER. GREAT FOR TRACTION, HORRIBLE FOR MAKING TURNS.
LIFE IS SHORT AND ENDS UNEXPECTEDLY. MAKE EVERY MOMENT WORTH REMEMBERING.
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MSeriesRebuild
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As you've already found out, M37's were simply not designed for a tall person in the driver's seat. The civilian power wagons are really no different in that area. Adjustment of the clutch pedal itself is not possible as per the adjusting screws, instead they turn the shaft to adjust release bearing free travel distance. The pedal doesn't move as the shaft free spins in the pedal bore. As for blocks, they will usually work in a stock set up just fine up to a point, just be certain that you don't get too much block thickness or to the point that sufficient pedal travel is not available so you have some free travel and that you still have enough total pedal travel to fully release the clutch. It can get to be a fine line in balancing everything. Brake pedal is not a big issue as long as you have a slight amount of free travel to be certain no pressure is applied to the M/C piston when the pedal is released.
The stock seat back is rather thick, many options can be applied with that. The one I like best is to simply replace the entire seat assembly. I did mine with a medium high back bucket seat from Northern Tool. To me it's more comfortable than the stock seat, has a contoured back. I installed mine so it tilts forward as the original. My seat is not nearly as thick as the back or bottom original cushions. It's cushion, bottom and back are a firm foam, no springs. More comfortable than springs by far, and has held up extremely well. I expect it's 15 years old now, the black vinyl upholstery still is in great shape, I think I paid $120 for it. An added plus is that the bottom cushion is also thinner which helps out on more room as much if not more than the thinner back cushion. The driver is sitting lower making more room as far as steering wheel interference. When we customize a trucks steering which is easily done when installing power steering, we can raise, lengthen or shorten the column slightly to better accommadate the principal operator. Of course you can do a tilt/telescoping column for even better driver comfort.
The traction thing, you'll have to pull the diff out to inspect in order to know exactly what has been done for sure. If you don't need positive traction, no locker at all is the BEST option, if you are operating in situations that demand locking differentials, the ARB air locker is THE way to fly. The simple truth is the fact that ARB's can be disengaged readily when a locker is not needed, this single point makes this unit far and away the better choice. 3 huge factors only the ARB can offer is in the area of operator control, undue stress applied to axle shafts and drivetrain components in the disengaged mode, simple flick of a switch engagement/disengagement that can be done on the fly. We still install what a customer wants, but I only recommend the ARB. Another simple truth, Lock-Rites will cause unfavorable operating characteristics, especially if used in the front end, and will promote other undesirables such as axle shaft failures, accelerated wear in varoius areas, etc.
The stock seat back is rather thick, many options can be applied with that. The one I like best is to simply replace the entire seat assembly. I did mine with a medium high back bucket seat from Northern Tool. To me it's more comfortable than the stock seat, has a contoured back. I installed mine so it tilts forward as the original. My seat is not nearly as thick as the back or bottom original cushions. It's cushion, bottom and back are a firm foam, no springs. More comfortable than springs by far, and has held up extremely well. I expect it's 15 years old now, the black vinyl upholstery still is in great shape, I think I paid $120 for it. An added plus is that the bottom cushion is also thinner which helps out on more room as much if not more than the thinner back cushion. The driver is sitting lower making more room as far as steering wheel interference. When we customize a trucks steering which is easily done when installing power steering, we can raise, lengthen or shorten the column slightly to better accommadate the principal operator. Of course you can do a tilt/telescoping column for even better driver comfort.
The traction thing, you'll have to pull the diff out to inspect in order to know exactly what has been done for sure. If you don't need positive traction, no locker at all is the BEST option, if you are operating in situations that demand locking differentials, the ARB air locker is THE way to fly. The simple truth is the fact that ARB's can be disengaged readily when a locker is not needed, this single point makes this unit far and away the better choice. 3 huge factors only the ARB can offer is in the area of operator control, undue stress applied to axle shafts and drivetrain components in the disengaged mode, simple flick of a switch engagement/disengagement that can be done on the fly. We still install what a customer wants, but I only recommend the ARB. Another simple truth, Lock-Rites will cause unfavorable operating characteristics, especially if used in the front end, and will promote other undesirables such as axle shaft failures, accelerated wear in varoius areas, etc.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Montanaorbust
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Wow.. Thanks for all the info and ideas... Well i dont have blocks behind my floor board, but i see how it would stop the clutch from coming back so much. See my clutch comes out about two inches further than my brake.
As i ponder on ideas myself i notice a bracket or something behind my clutch bolted to the floorboard. See in both pics.. what is that for?
ard.
Now the seat.. Still im thinking its stock.. Got lots of good ideas about that. See its back as far as it will go. ill come up with something.
How many of you have a dent in your door, because of your jerry can? How can i stop the door from opening so far? This is a real straight truck... I hate to see these things happen, even though i dont baby her.
Red paint under odg, im thinking a bush truck for the firedept. Maybe explains some of the holes in the bed.
As i ponder on ideas myself i notice a bracket or something behind my clutch bolted to the floorboard. See in both pics.. what is that for?
ard.Now the seat.. Still im thinking its stock.. Got lots of good ideas about that. See its back as far as it will go. ill come up with something.
How many of you have a dent in your door, because of your jerry can? How can i stop the door from opening so far? This is a real straight truck... I hate to see these things happen, even though i dont baby her.
Red paint under odg, im thinking a bush truck for the firedept. Maybe explains some of the holes in the bed.
INDEED, IT SEEMS STRANGE THAT THE CLUCH PEDAL RETURNS SO FAR BACK. THE BRACKET BEHIND THE CLUCH PEDAL, I THINK IT IS A MAXIMUM TRAVEL "STOPPER". I MY TRUCK WHEN THE CLUCH PEDAL IS FULLY PRESSED IT ALMOST TOUCHES THAT BRACKET. AS FOR THE JERRY HOLDER BEND, ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR, WHERE IT HINGES, IT HAS AN ARM (ORIGINALLY, IDK IF IT STILL EXISTS IN YOUR TRUCK) THAT ARM LIMITS THE TRAVEL OF THE OPEN DOOR. THE ORIGINAL DESIGN HAS A RUBBER PIECE ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR AT THE END OF THAT ARM. APPARENTLY, YOU MIGHT BE MISSING THAT RUBBER PIECE. I WAS MISSING THAT, AND AS OPPOSED TO GET A NEW ONE, I CUT SEVERAL ROUND PIECES OF AN OLD TIRE FLAP, AND SKEWERED THEM ON THE END OF THAT ARM, PREETY MUCH LIKE THE LEATHER HANDLE OF THE KA-BAR KNIFE. THIS WAY I COULD ADJUST EXACTLY WHERE I WANTED THE DOOR TO OPEN TRAVELWISE BY ADDING OR REMOVING PIECES. WORKS GREAT. AS OF THE HOLES IN THE BED, THE ONE YOU SHOW IS FOR MILITARY RADIO EQUIPMENT AS FAR AS I KNOW. YOUR SEAT SEEMS TO BE MILITARY, BUT I AM NOT 100% SURE. MAYBE OTHER FOLKS HERE MIGHT HAVE A MORE KEEN EYE ON THIS SUBJECT.
LIFE IS SHORT AND ENDS UNEXPECTEDLY. MAKE EVERY MOMENT WORTH REMEMBERING.
It appears as though you do have the blocks mounted behind both the clutch an brake pedals, or at least the screws from where they were mounted. The two flat head machine screws in the floor board directly below the hole the clutch pedal goes through are not original as far as I know. there are also two screws in a similar location on your brake pedal. Perhaps the block of wood for the clutch pedal was removed or rotted away, but the one for the brake is still there explaining the difference in pedal height.
Brett
Brett