VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENTS...

[Cal_Gary]

I have the 8030 manual so I know what IT recommends, but also know that such data over time is not alway optimal. For those who have done this, what specs seemed to work best for you? I hope to tackle this tomorrow.
Thanks!
Gary

[M-Thrax]

blank

[Cal_Gary]

Thanks M-Thrax! I get a little "puff, puff, puff" like a couple of valves are not closing completely. My old Mutt did the same thing (during my Army career) then stopped doing this when I adjusted the valves (coincidently, to .015).
Gary

[Cal_Gary]

I spent some of New Year's day tackling this task. In doing so, I found a rebuild data plate under the valve covers dated March 1975, performed at Aberdeen Proving Ground, MD (how ironic-I went to AIT there in 1976). More good info and another to add to the task list-rebuild it again down the road.

Anyway, I did the valves, initially with the engine running as prescribed in TM9-8030. What a PIA to get a 1/2 open-end wrench on the lifter then a 7/16 on the adjuster, and slide a .015 feeler gauge in all at the same time! Of course the exhaust manifold is cooking up, and I now have a "branded" left hand from the lifters riding up and down-sizzling!!! Anyway, even with removing the splash guard and right-front tire, I still had to work from a squatting position under the fender in order to do the work, so I now have sore legs to go wih the hand-tattoos. After the valves were adjusted I shut it off, poured some cold water on my hand, then hand-cranked it around again and rechecked my work.

The engine seems a bit quieter-some valves were too tight, others too loose, but even with the proper adjustments I still get some puffing when the engine is at idle. I suspect a valve job to include resurfacing the valve seats will take care of the issue, but am glad to have completed this task. Oh, a tip for All: an 11/16 socket fits over the valve cover thumb screws, to ensure ease of removal and install.
Gary

[M-Thrax]

blank

[Carter]

If the valves are going to be adjusted with the engine running and hot, the gloves tip is a good one. I bought a pair if oven-gloves and cut the fingers off and use them to avoid this:


I did this several years ago while adjusting valves on my trucks engine.

[M-Thrax]

blank

[MSeriesRebuild]

Too little, too late, but you guys don't have to char-broil your hands to do a valve lash adjustment. It's very easy to do it cold, and you will certainly get a far more accurate adjustment as well. Did you take into consideration the "indent factor?" If not, your adjustment is off still, regardless of how you did it.

[Carter]

Bill, it didn't hurt that much but the smoke smelled really awful.


Charles, after doing another engine's valve adjustment hot and with gloves, Ralph and I decided to used your cold set-up method when we did his engine and it set things perfectly. I tried to find the post you made last year about it but the search came up with no results, could you tell us again how it's done? I printed a copy but it's lost in my files somewhere. Thanks

[cuz]

Hot does not necessarily mean running. I simply run the engine until it's hot (fully warmed up) then shut it down. Pull the covers and adjust each with the lifter centered on the heal of the cam lobe.

Corrected

[MSeriesRebuild]

Bill, it didn't hurt that much but the smoke smelled really awful.


Charles, after doing another engine's valve adjustment hot and with gloves, Ralph and I decided to used your cold set-up method when we did his engine and it set things perfectly. I tried to find the post you made last year about it but the search came up with no results, could you tell us again how it's done? I printed a copy but it's lost in my files somewhere. Thanks

Your filing system sounds like mine. I'll be happy to post the procedure again as soon as time permits.

[Carter]

Thanks Charles.

[Cal_Gary]

Hi Charles and All,
Yes, I had your expertise in mind when doing the adjustments, and had to snug a couple just a bit more because there was still too much of a "click" even with the correct settings.

Since I still have front fenders to replace this spring, I've decided it will be much easier to revisit the valve adjustments unencumbered once the old fender is removed.

Thanks to All for your support-it means a lot to me!
Gary

[Monkey Man]

If the valves are going to be adjusted with the engine running and hot, the gloves tip is a good one. I bought a pair if oven-gloves and cut the fingers off and use them to avoid this:


I did this several years ago while adjusting valves on my trucks engine.

I have had a burn more or less identical to that from the same thing and I know how you felt Carter, stings a bit dosen't it. Charles is right on this point, I'd remove the inner guard and sort it that way when cold however now my truck has a 318 with hydraulic lifters it is a thing of the past as is points adjustment with the electronic ignition.
The inevitable rebuild on the not too distant horizon is however a thing to ponder but seeing as I put the engine in quite a few years ago as a temporary unit until I could fully rebuild a second 318 and swap it in shortly after shows I was lucky with my $300 engine from the wreckers but the time is nearly upon me

Best Regards - MM

[Carter]

Yeah Tony, It did sting a little but now I have another M37 "battle scar", one of many I have received working on these things since I got my first in 1971
I have rebuilt several 318s and they are reasonably easy to do and parts are widely available.

When doing a valve adjustment I remove the entire fender with splash shield attached and the wheel, place a jack stand under the axle then sit on the brake drum and go to work.