Oil Pan Gasket opinions

[topellis]

I had changed my oil pan gasket back in 2002 but it had started leaking pretty badly and I tried snugging the bolts because they seemed a little loose. I didn't over torque them but it just made the leak worse. I tried replacing it with a permatex gasket sealer from a aerosol can and almost ran out before I got all the way around and went ahead and put it on... I got it a little thin in the front main area and it is leaking like a stuck hog. Looking for opinions on whether to use the original cork again or try once more with a sealer. What has everyone else used? Also if I do use the original cork gaskets... on the front and rear main area, are you supposed to trim the excess that hangs out past the level of the pan? I did and put a little silicone sealer there where I had trimmed it to be flush with the rest of the pan. Also... if you use a sealer instead of the gasket, doesn't it have to be very thick in the front and rear main area in order to seal? the original gasket is quite thick in this area. I hate doing a job twice and want the third to be the last time...lol.

Thanks for any feedback.

Mark

[HingsingM37]

Mark,

I used the original cork gasket with aviation form-a-gasket. That is the brown shellac liquid. I have used this forever on cork pan and valve cover gaskets. Old school. I try never to use silicone on hot oil or fuel sealing surfaces, but rather the shellac or an anerarobic sealer.
DO NOT trim the front and rear lip gaskets! Set them evenly in the pan, you will have about a 1/4" hanging out on each side. They will compress to form your seal. Do not over tighten, the pan gasket will tear easily. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and carefully make them snug at best without distorting the cork. I do not know if somebody makes a pan gasket out of the blue gasket material? I imagine the end gaskets would still have to be cork.

[N1VSM]

I tried replacing it with a permatex gasket sealer from a aerosol can and almost ran out before I got all the way around and went ahead and put it on.

Do you mean the permatex high-temp anaerobic gasket goo? That doesn't come in a spray can - but the "pre-goo" semi tacky stuff does. You need to use the thick stuff in the tube with the spray. In fact, I've found that the spray is worthless. Better to make sure your mating surfaces are totally clean - although that goes without saying. I've had great results with the permatex, but haven't done my oil pan yet.

Charles will hopefully chime in with the correct names and uses of the permatex products.

[topellis]

What I used was permatex 1 minute sealer. It says it is for oil pans and such. It says you can put on and tighten down all the way and drive it off. No time to allow it to set. The part I had problems with was the thick area where the mains are. One end was a little skimpy.... I got two more cans to do it again but just wanted to know what others have done.

Thanks,
Mark

[MSeriesRebuild]

Time wasted trying to patch. Pull the pan, totally clean all the old material off. Get a new pan gasket kit from NAPA along with an aerosol can of "Copper-Coat" gasket sealer. It works by far the best on cork material. Anaerobic will cause cork to push out when compressed causing it to tear, etc. Spray both sides of the gaskets liberally & evenly, hang the gaskets & let dry for about 5 minutes, Copper-Coat is very tacky & will hold it right there as long as you don't over torque. After cleaning the pan flange, tap all the bolt hole bosses back straight with a hammer, a new gasket will not seal if you don't do this. This may well be why your first gasket job was unsuccessful. Install the new gasket carefully, as David said, don't cut the ends flush, expose an equal amount on both sides, apply only a little silicone at the ends of the side sections, bolt it up. Torque the 4 corners very lightly, start then in the middle & alternate from side to side working both forward & backward evenly. Get to the point of very light gasket pressure, go once more around the pan to get a final, even, light torque. Only lightly compress the cork gaskets. You are finished. Remember EVENLY throughout the whole process. If you over torque to the point the bolts distort the pan flange, that's too tight & the job is ruined.

[topellis]

Charles,
Thanks for your reply, I will do as you suggest. From what I read, I think my problem with the first installation was that I trimmed the front and rear main portion of the gaskets. It just didn't make sense to me to leave material hanging out like that. It did hold well for a couple years that way though. I had put a dab of silicone in the places where the trimmed ends met back up with the flange gasket part. I also did tap the sheet metal back flat around the flange... I assume that is what you mean by bolt hole boss? It was distorted somewhat when I removed it in the beginning but was still flat when I removed the leaking cork gasket that I had installed to begin with. Hope to get it done this weekend,

Thanks for the info.

Mark

[MSeriesRebuild]

Charles,
Thanks for your reply, I will do as you suggest. From what I read, I think my problem with the first installation was that I trimmed the front and rear main portion of the gaskets. It just didn't make sense to me to leave material hanging out like that. It did hold well for a couple years that way though. I had put a dab of silicone in the places where the trimmed ends met back up with the flange gasket part. I also did tap the sheet metal back flat around the flange... I assume that is what you mean by bolt hole boss? It was distorted somewhat when I removed it in the beginning but was still flat when I removed the leaking cork gasket that I had installed to begin with. Hope to get it done this weekend,

Thanks for the info.

Mark

I believe you've got it.

[HingsingM37]

I meant to say above that I use use anaerobic sealer in lieu of gaskets, not in combo with them