Engine pulling help

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 2:37 pm

I have made the decision to pull my engine . Is there an easy way or are there any tips that you guys who have done this operation before can give me . Yes I have pulled engines from my Ford trucks and my Bronco but are there any things I should know that will make the job easier on the M37?? thanks

HingsingM37 · Post by **HingsingM37** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:35 am

Rix,

When I pulled my engine I left the bellhousing and trans on the engine rather than fight trying to separate the engine away from the trans. and lift it out. This makes it much easier nicer to re-align and service the clutch disc and pressure plate. I always hated trying to re-align the engine to the trans while it was still in the vehicle. My radiator,front grilles, and related sheet metal were off at the time. So was my cab, so I didn't have to work around anything.

The front mount is secured to the frame on each side by a single bolt. Unbolt this. Remove the prop shaft from the trans to xfer case. The bellhousing is secured by a bolt on each side. Pay attention to the order of spacers and washers on the bellhousing mounts. Also remove your clutch and throttle linkages. Start spraying those bolts with Blaster or Free-all a few days ahead of time.

The best advice is take your time and start fresh in the morning. Allocate plenty of time. Don't rush or broken things result.

I bought one of those $159.00 Harbor Frieght engine hoists and it worked great. I used it to lift my xfer case onto the workbench the other day. Back in the old days i could lift that stuff right up...Have fun!

SOTVEN · Post by **SOTVEN** » Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:27 am

Indeed, Hingsingm37 is right. Acording to the Greek Army manual That I have the sheetmetal in the front as well as the radiator are removed(not the cabi though) and the engine and transmission come out together lifted by the single eye hole on the engine block. Since you have done this before with other vehicles, you already know how to keep track of all the bits and pieces you remove. Good luck.

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 4:34 pm

Thanks for the help . I took out the floor boards today. Man that is one big tranny!! think I 'll get one of those cherry pickers from harbour frieght before I go much further . I really don't want to take the whole front end off if I don't have too. I want to take off the trans and strip all the parts I can off the block and maybe remove the fender on the passenger side and lift the engine and bell housing out that way.
Gotta work tomorrow so next step is a couple of days away.

SOTVEN · Post by **SOTVEN** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 10:29 am

It is quite a big tranny taking into cosideration its a four speed manual. However, as someone said (can not remember when though) "putting that engine and tranny together is like trying to mate a rhino and a hippo," so better be done on the bench or floor rather than on the frame. Just my two cents. In any event, good luck.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 8:39 pm

rixm37 wrote:Thanks for the help . I took out the floor boards today. Man that is one big tranny!! think I 'll get one of those cherry pickers from harbour frieght before I go much further . I really don't want to take the whole front end off if I don't have too. I want to take off the trans and strip all the parts I can off the block and maybe remove the fender on the passenger side and lift the engine and bell housing out that way.
Gotta work tomorrow so next step is a couple of days away.

Well, if you work on trucks much, the trans is quite small & really easy to handle at around 125#. If I'm understanding your intentions correctly, you will be going around the world to get across the street. Leave the trans attached, remove both front fenders leaving the grill segment attached to either fender on 1 side is the simplest way to get all out of the way & make it easy. This allows for the least disassembly & is light enough for 1 man handling, no problem. You can lift the engine, trans, & radiator out as an assembly or you can go ahead & remove the radiator prior to pulling the engine if you prefer. Getting the fenders out of your way is well worth the little time it will take, makes the job SOOOOOOOOOOO much easier as everything will be very easy to access. Set the engine on a suitable stand or engine pallet. Attach your cherry picker to the trans, remove the 4 bolts & pull straight back, easy as pie. Reassemble in the reverse order when it's time to go back. It will be the easiest transmission line up & assembly you'll ever do, far less frustrating than attempting to align it from under the truck. We do ours using a chain hoist, so easy to align it's sinful to think of doing it any other way.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:55 am

I too, pulled my tranny last year but did not have a sling or hoist. My solution was to run a length of pipe horizontally from front of the cab to the back, attached chain as described in Charles' post, then used a good ratchet strap to apply tension between the pipe and tranny chain-just enough to secure the assembly-slid it straight back, then straight back in once I replaced the rear main, and clutch set.

M-Thrax · Post by **M-Thrax** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 5:42 am

You've probably done it already but as mentioned pulling the whole power pack is the way to go ( click below)

http://news.webshots.com/photo/10294261 ... EdGvdmTveW

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:14 pm

WOW a picture is worth a thousand words!! I also noticed the backhoe bucket now that is a great engine crane!!

Engine pulling help

Engine pulling help

engine pull