Plus some miscellaneous bits such as the PTO lever and cab floor lever lock. But (assuming you have a US spec truck), it's basically as you described. The hard (and expensive) part is finding all of those pieces. If you find an LU4 winch, best to inspect the bronze worm gear inside the left housing ...

That button and buzzer is the self destruct circuit. Don't hold it down too long.

If everything on the truck is 24v, there's no reason for that intermediate ground cable.

Did a previous owner set up something to run on 12v?

Agreed with Andy on the shot peening. When I balanced and polished the rods for my engine, shot peening was on the list of things done. I hope that the old guy is right about those ribs. I might have been able to save some time and expense, but instead I ended up with a large collection of rods, try...

Now the total weights are matched: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/3568/Balancing_5.jpg Interesting that you chose to remove the ribs from the bottom ends of the rods in order to balance. More modern rods sometimes have a sacrificial balancing "pad" on the bottom half, but I'm not su...

McMaster-Carr will have what you need. I'd use SAE660 material.

Weatherhead 6820 needle valve is the OEM part.

How small a diameter Snatch block can you use without damaging the cable, significantly shortening its life, or turning the cable into something resembling a curly pig’s tail? I have a Harbor Freight snatch block, but have never Used it with my M37 winch - I’m concerned the diameter is a bit on the...

Hones are best for managing the surface finish in the bore, not so much for enlarging the bore dimension. The ball hones especially so. They'll work for very small enlargement, but it can be slow and as noted, they'll load up with cut material and then stop cutting. A reamer is a better tool for the...

The A-frame kit (TB9-2300-248-30) for the G741 trucks shows this snatch block: M37 hoist small.jpg I believe that it is a UW6. I have several of these on hand, and they seem about the right size. The block is in the ORD 9 book as p/n 7376463, Group 2001.1, but the description doesn't include a model...

I should have also asked: original 24v system or converted to 12v?

Either way, 34v is high.

No way to adjust the solid state regulators that I know of.

What is the voltage?

Have you verified that the voltage in the instrument cluster gage is accurate by comparing with a known good multimeter?