I neglected to mention that there is already PB blaster in the mix before adding diesel.
I've used a large breaker bar on the front crankshaft nut and it's solid, no movement.

The engine on my M37 is seized up. I've removed the head and have all cylinders soaking in a puddle of diesel fuel. The boar look good on all six and the spark plug condition indicated the engine was running fairly well before it was stored. Any suggestions on how to go about getting the pistons to ...

I wire brushed the frame and it looks like the serial number match. Looks like the tag was replaced by some prior enthusiast for some unknown reason.

Hal O'Peridol wrote:I have a free hard top if you help take it off. I am in Blaine, WA.

Definitely interested

Hmm, interesting indeed. I'll have to look for the frame id. Where might I go looking for the frame/body numbers?

I just found the VPW tops today, nice option for 900ish later on down the road. I just got the M37 home and have a lot of work to do. Engine has to come out for disassembly and the body needs some care asap to stop the corrosion. Looks like a full tub off restoration is in order along with a lot of ...

Looking locally for a hardtop steel or preferably fiberglass and a tailgate.

Looks like 80007758, inspectors writing was a bit creative.

Need an assist with decoding serial number.
http://1drv.ms/1mqQa9r

Old thread but helpful, I'm considering dual yellowtop as well

Looks like any group 31 batteries will work.
CUCV takes 6TL, not sure yet about M37
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0294013287

Really nice build, I've had a few Mopar's in the past - 67 GTX 440, 65 Fury 383

Forum search was somewhat helpful.
Recommendations on replacement 12V batteries? The vehicle is 24V unconverted. I'm thinking about dual optima 12V Yellow tops but may avoid that expense until I check out the engine condition.