I found this block. What is the actual engine number?
T436 ??
Plan on using the block, head, and internals.

Would it be a good donor?
.

I've been told that if I replace both front and rear blinkers with LED bulbs, it may cause problems with not flashing correctly. I have not tried it yet. My rear bulbs are still incandescent. Yes, the issue is called "Hyper-Flash". Basically the flasher uses the resistance of the bulbs to...

The snap style is nice as you can remove them easily.

I have two sets but want a 3rd for the Grands to ride. The eye bolts will enable the configuration changes as needed.

The first replacements are the toughest-once you go to school on them they become easier the next time around. Gary Hopefully I won't need to replace again. The flange was really pitted bad. A Speedy Sleeve fixed that! I'm waiting till the rear axle seal bugs me then I'll work on that one. Maybe ov...

This thing just kicked my ads. Paid "The Man" down the street. 15min to pop it out, another 15min to put in. It helps to have the right tools and a lift (for leverage).

Well worth the shop time $.

Been driving it as much as possible but the weather has been wet a lot.

Finally got the seatbelts mounted.

Late update.

Put all back together, painted, and connected. It works but need to see after dark what it really looks like.

Nice to have that piece functional.

Due to the location of the master cylinder I use an air operated suction bleeder. This attaches at the bleeder valve.

A volt meter is a better choice to know what is going on. An ammeter only gives rate. But, because I like to know both level and rate, I have both and mounted the ammeter under the dash in a small panel. Thank you. I was leaning towards the volt meter. I read that with a solid state regulator (whic...

John Mc wrote: ↑Sun Mar 09, 2025 11:46 am Wires 8 & 9 from the regulator are for an amp meter.

If you want a volt meter, just pick up wire 27 from the instrument cluster (it's grounded through the panel).

Yes, thanks.

My '52 M37 has wires 8 and 9 out of the regulator. The previous owner had an amp meter but it doesn't work.
What would be best in the cluster?
The easiest to interpret?

New voltmeter and rewire?
Check wires 8 and 9, maybe rewire or new amp meter?

Either way seems just as much work for me.

Cal_Gary wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2025 9:49 pm Sorry for the delay

Gary

This is a 'future project' and want to have it rebuit then swapped in.

Charles has already provided locking hubs, power steering, power brakes, and some work. I know his work well.

As said: Looking for a late year 230ci flathead
Military preferred but complete, head and block
To be rebuilt so tired is ok, just not seized
Must have flywheel
No carb, fuel pump ok
Best location in the NC area
Tell me your pick up price
Preference is a PM

Thanks for all the input. I picked up a modern single barrel carburetor that "may" work. It's rated for a 220ci to 260ci 6cyl. For $30 I'll take a chance as the jets are available for tuning if required. Going with the OEM  Federated# F331227H gasket. If I need to open area around the port...

Hi RD, According to my TM9- 8030, the carb stud size is 3/8x16 NC x 24NF x 1 7/16 length. Still digging on the distances; might anyone have a carb gasket they can measure for RD? My manuals don't have that measurement. Thanks, Gary Perfect! I have a gasket arriving tonight that will work for any ot...