I just finished stripping my engine down to the bare block.
I did not number the lifters as they were removed.
A friend later told me the lifters should go back in the
same holes that they came from.
Is this correct?
If it is, what's the fix? New lifters? Or?

Any input appreciated.

Thanks for the tip Charles.

What's the best book or manual for engine rebuilding?
Portrayal Press has TM 9-1840A that seems like it might work.
Any others you can recommend?

Like many others, I had a horrible experience with Aervo Paint a few years ago. Re-painted the front half of my M37. The Aervo paint would not dry even after a month or two. I could peel it off with my fingernail. Painted most parts one or two at a time and each time Aervo gave me a different shade ...

Ooops.

Forgot a zero. You're right... 0.030, thirty thousands.
not 0.30....... duh on me.

I might use a crank from one of the other two engines
if the 0.030 crank is in poor shape.

Thks again for the input.

Lifer....thanks for the info. I've done compression tests on all 3 engines. Two of them have miserable PSI's. 0's to 60's. But the third one, the T245A has upper 70's to 110's. It has a re-build tag on the side... says: bore-standard, mains and rod bearings 0.30, done in Japan 1976. Overall, it's th...

I recently "inherited" 3 used M37 engines in various states of dis-repair. I'd like to re-build one of them. Are there any preferences to which one I should try to re-build? Here are the engine numbers: T 245-56347 T 245-36134 T 245A-260859 I tryed, with no luck, to do a search on this sit...

Thanks for the tips Lifer.
I'll start the removal of all brake fluid today and use alcohol as
the flushing agent.
Thanks again fur yur he'p.
m37jarhead

Unknown to me the previous owner of my M37 used silicone brake fluid. While doing routine maintenance last week I bled the system using standard glycol based DOT 3 brake fluid. I assume the whole system now needs to be flushed. I've heard that we should use alcohol for this. What proceedure do you r...

Fred:
Thanks for the thread sealer info.
Much appreciated.
I'll get into the "search" section to learn
to use this feature.
THks,
Jerry

Some months ago many of you had the name and part number for
a recommended head bolt thread sealer. Can't remember if it was
NAPA or Permatex product.
Can you refresh my memory, please?

Thanks for the tips from Charles and Lifer. I'll try the 3/4" socket with a universal joint and/or a wobble. Might just work. Short of that.... I'll take Lifer's route and use the "fire ax" to remove the nuts on top. Will make "spotting" the new holes a lot easier and like y...

Larry: You may be right about the "original" bolts/nuts being somehow welded or "captured" in place inside the crossmember. On my m37 the bolts protrude up through the crossmember with the nuts through the top of the motor mounts. (???) Must be a jury-rig deal. The bolts spin in ...

Terry: Thanks for your answer. There are some holes on the under-side of the cross member but they are so far off set forward that I cannot get the 3/4" socket on the head of the bolt. The whole thing seems bizarre to me. How the heck were the bolts ever first installed? Looks like I'll have to...

I started to remove the Canadian 251 engine from my m37 today and right off the bat got stumped with how to remove the bolts from the front motor mounts. As many of you know, the 251 motor is mounted forward of the normal front motor mounts. The mounting bolts come up from the inside of the "U&...