Update: Worked on it again today. We started by pulling the cap back off, and cold testing the coil. It was within spec, however we weren't getting power to the coil. So we went back to square one, and pulled the connection apart that feeds the distributor. We found we were getting 24v at the Dougla...

When I checked both coils, they were out on a bench, not installed in the distributor. That's when they both ohm'd to 1.1, across the terminals. I'll heat them up and see what kind of reading we get. The time I got a reading of 34v was with the wires hooked up, but the truck hadn't run, we had crank...

We looked threw the manual and didn't see a procedure to check the resistance, but with my meter I set it to the ohms setting and measured both the aftermarket and the original mil coil and they both measured 1.1ohms. Now that was measured on the bench, nothing was hooked up wiring wise. If there's ...

Ah good point about the grounds, never thought to check them out and see there condition.
We did put a digital multimeter on the coil a couple of times, and always got 24-24.5v. Once I measured 35v, but attributed that to a dying battery in my meter, as getting 34v from 2 12v batteries isn't possible.

Maybe it was coincidence then that we burnt the second one up a short time after it was reinstalled.

Ok guys, helping a friend with his M37, and having issues with it running, narrowed it down to an Ignition issue. Background. Stock truck, though its had its fair share of wiring add ons, extras, etc. Last fall we did a tune up, including new coil, points, cap, rotor, condenser, plugs and wires. He ...

Good to know, thanks.
Thought it was weird, only one side was the issue, but that tie rod did look slightly different compared to the one I removed. Casting looked thicker, etc

In the process of repowering and modifying my M37, I installed new NOS tie rods that I bought from Midwest. Followed the TM, everything came out just great, except when it came time to tighten down the drivers side tie rod nut. I tightened it down, get ready to torque it, and the ball/stud spins in ...

Yup, WC is wider by a couple of inches, but not a big deal. I'm using my M37 gear chunk and setting it into the WC axle, so yes its a 4" pinion seal, hopefully one gasket will do. Unless I find more information, ill just have to measure everything when it gets here and go from there

Recently purchased a WC axle housing and axle shafts to swap into my modified M37. I know ill have to move the spring perches, and make shock mounts, but I remember Ray at Ugly Truckling used to have a great tech article on the swap, including having to do some machine work, drilling the stud holes,...