According to NAPA 3596 has the stepped bore as well. The store could not find one anywhere and they cost $60+. Maybe NAPA is transitioning over to the more common 9375/76 numbers. My 9376 has the same casting marks and similar packaging to the Raybestos cylinder. The rubber cups on the ends are iden...

Good to know about the pistons. My old pistons look pretty bad, but they would possibly clean up. I would also like to clarify that they didn't cross reference the numbers. The NAPA number on the cylinder I purchased is 9376. It showed up in their system with that number and the box has 9376 on the ...

Thought I would add some new information to this old post. I had my NAPA store look up 3595 and 3596. They were expensive and they could not locate a 3596 at any of the warehouses. They then looked up 9375 and 9376 (same as Raybestos number) and found them available for $39. The 9375/9376 are listed...

A dented driveshaft will be prone to buckling under high torque. I wouldn't try to pull out the dent because you really want a perfectly round cylinder to carry to torque. The best option in my opinion would be to have a new tube welded onto your ends. I've had driveshafts made up for cars in the pa...

Thanks Charles, Even though I've already torqued my head, I would like that part number so that I can take a look at those bolts. Do you think that I will be OK having torqued the head with a single progression to 67 ft-lb rather than going 45 before full torque? I used the correct sequence and I we...

I thought about using the studs, but for some reason just decided to go with the bolts. I also bought 3 of John's tapped head bolts for $4 each, but he wanted $7.50 each for the regular bolts so I took a pass on those. I torqued the head down yesterday with no issues, so there is no turning back now...

I've always done multiple progressions on other motors as well. I went ahead did it in a single progression yesterday because the manual didn't specify anything else. Hopefully it isn't too critical since the manual didn't specify it. I definately don't want to tear it back down and replace the gask...

I use a product called EvapoRust for most of my rust removal projects. It you leave a clean but rusty part in it for about 48 hours it will remove every bit of rust. It will sometimes leave a little bit of a black film that can be removed with a wire wheel without much effort. The metal underneath i...

It doesn't really matter now.

I just torqued them in the sequence specified in the manual to 67 ft-lb in one pass and then went back over them all again a couple times in the same sequence.

In the past I have always torqued cylinder head in a couple of cycles starting with a lower torque like 45 ft-lbs and then with the final torque. The M37 manual doesn't specify doing this. Do you just do it all at once in the sequence given?

Thanks

Chuck

Over half of my original head bolts had some degree of pitting on them so I decided to buy a new set from VPW. Their bolts are not the original design, but are a modern bolt with a 1/2 inch head. Looks like they may be from a small block chevy. When I measure the length of the grip or shank portion ...

I just tried it in a pan of water while wearing some rubber gloves and got a reading of 1800 Ohms at a little under 150 degrees. Looks like it is working.

I noticed when I started my truck that the temperature gauge never got above 60 degrees so I decided to test my sending unit and thermostat. I ran it for at least 30 minutes and the engine felt hot, so I believe the reading was incorrect. The sending unit had a reading of 5500 Ohms at room temperatu...

I think I may have a plug welded in, or replace it with one that has a plug.

What size is the plug? Is it just pipe thread?

Bob,

Mine looks exactly like yours but without the drain. The conical section on the bottom was also completely filled with black sludge as thick as rear-end grease, which suggests that it hasn't been serviced in some time.

Chuck