Thanks for the suggestion Andy

Thank you Gary. That's a good suggestion. I suspect that might have it as well, but probably under their number and pricey. I think I have the yokes figured out for tcase and might by one to verify if I don't get any responses.

MikeM

Thanks Andy for the suggestion. I have dealt with Dave before so maybe he could help. I can get the flanges from torque king, but they r pricey and don't provide the spicer number. I have reached out to others whi have done this and I'll see if they reply.

Does anyone know what the spicer pn is for yokes that will accept 1410 ujounts for the NP200 TCASE? Besides my M37 I also have a 1968 dodge w200 and looking to replace my driveshafts and yokes with modern available stuff as my existing stuff is obsolete and getting hard to find.My power wagon tcase ...

Thanks for reply NV. I have another vehicle with Haggarty and I'll have to see what that policy says. When I spoke to them this past Friday, I asked them that question about going off reading and they told they won't cover that on my vehicle.

MikeM

Thank you for replying. I'll reach out to them.

Does anybody know who will insure these vehicles for off road use? My insurance USAA will no longer insure this type of vehicle and Haggarty as well as American classics will only insure it as a classic vehicle. FYI. I live in Tucson it that helps answer

Appreciate any help

Thanks
.
MikeM

U can get black oxide or maybe stainless allen head scews in the size u need from McMaster Carr. I have the black oxide ones.

Good luck

MikeM

Maybe there's someone else that will chime in that has had this issue. Just seems any other fix than replacing parts wouldn't hold up for long and u would have to fix it again, but who knows.

Good luck

MikeM

If it was mine, I would looked at finding another matched set upper and lower. I can't imagine them being too expensive. U can also try to peen or knurl the ID to get a tighter fit. My uncle did this on his old Ford 250 and as far as I know it worked, but who knows how well that would hold up. Good ...

Double check that torque spec. I did this many years ago but I recall the spec. being around 24in-lbs not ft lbs.

Good luck

MikeM

U can be off timing wise due to gear being off 1 tooth or more on oil pump. When I replaced my oil pump my timing was off like yours and once I removed the oil pump again and rotating the gear back another tooth and reinstalled it was good. I believe the engine rebuild manual covers how to install o...

Follow up: Old post of mine but wanted to post my solution for future. My issue turned out to be a bad battery cable to the starter. It was probably the original one and the outer insulational was cracked and brittle. I suspect it must have been arcing against the bell housing and causing the truck ...

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I've looked at a lot of pictures, but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. In my situation if I route the battery cable how it think it should be routed, it pretty much touches the side of the engine block by the starter which I don't really like. I tried to have ...

Hi, Does anyone have pictures of how the battery cable is routed from battery box to starter? My cable seems to be really close to the engine block (touching it) and I don't really like how it is. Are there supposed to be cable clamps on the bell housing or accelerator linkage to help direct the cab...