g741.org

52PLOWERWAGON wrote: I need a wiring diagram so I can figure out what is what

The different diagrams for the M37 and M37B1 trucks have been posted here. A search for "wiring diagram" should be able to find them.

There's also a table somewhere of all of the different code tags for the different circuits, if your truck still has any of the original wiring with the little metal tags crimped on the insulation.

what is the best way to prime an oilpump

One of these pre-lubers might be useful. Made from an old 20lb propane tank (I've been able to get these free from the tank fill places - once they get too old and can't be re-certified, they remove the propane valve and send the steel tank to scrap).

This was posted a while back on the dodgepowerwagon.com forum, with these notes:

"Thanks to Dave Langford, Derek Olson, and Bob_K on the Pilot-house.com forum. Dave Langford posted some time ago about an engine pre-luber for a rebuilt engine to use before starting it for the first time, using it on his rebuilt 230 to develop oil pressure before it was started. This helps ensure that the engine is not damaged by slow flow of oil to all the internal components by relying on the oil pump to do it very quickly by itself. Derek Olson over at the Job Rated site was motivated by Dave's posting, and came up with a superior concept which needs NO drilling or welding. Bob_K took Derek's concepts, and came up with a conceptual drawing that shows the workings of the pre-luber and added a materials list. Below is the drawing of the tank upright with no modification required. The two tees right out of the tank are 1/2" black iron as well as the elbow on the right and all nipples. The ball valve on the right is 1/2" brass and I found it is easy to get a plastic funnel close enough to self thread into the valve tightly. Use a 1/2" x 1/4" black bushing on the left tee then use 1/4" black pipe fittings to finish the assembly as shown. Pressure gauges are readily available in 1/4" npt as well as the air compressor fittings. The hose barb at the top for the "oil out" is 3/8" hose barb by 1/2" male pipe with a piece of 3/8" O.D. soft copper soldered into it for a dip tube."

Here is the old post on both wiring diagrams:
http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php ... tic#p32592

Gary

thanks for the help everyone

hopefully I can get some more done today

last 6 valves in
valve lash set

I cant believe how much lift my valves have

That prelube setup is a great idea !

Travis good luck on your rebuild !



Dave

Hey Travis,

What did you set your valve lash to?

There has been allot of discussion on here about this and Charles from M-Series offered up great advice to get you started out on the right foot.

Check out this thread http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php ... lash#p3283

Bert

.010 and .012

cylinders are honed

main bearings and crank are in

52PLOWERWAGON wrote:cylinders are honed

main bearings and crank are in

Congrats. Always nice when things start to go back together.

Are you re-using the original tappets? If so, what clearances do they measure out to?

engine is almost back together (all except manifolds)

carb is rebuilt

and it turns out my crank was re ground and my old berrings were tighter than the nos ones I ordered

so I reused the old ones

I will sell my nos rod and main bearings (pm me if interested)

truck will be back together soon

today I ,

separated the manifolds

removed the heat riser

and brazed up a crack in my exhaust manifold

Travis,

Are you planning on installing a new heat riser in the manifold?

Bert

no, and the manifolds are on

isn't the heat riser cast into the manifold, and all you can remove is the heat riser butterfly/block off plate?

yes just the butterfly was removed