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Electical, Big Switch with Lock Out

24 volt compatible

Best part of $80.00 and worth every penny!

That's nicer that the two I have in my M (one for each battery).

So, let me get this straight, you would need one for each battery?

I installed the Big Switch in the ground cable that comes from the frame and goes to the first battery.

It has been working well for several years so far.

Bruce, Yes, One on the Engine Battery, and one on the accessory Battery.

Im not really worried about the shutoff on the battery, i have one of those already (not that type)....Is there any doorlock I can use? We had our landrover stolen by the kid up the street (and set on fire)....lately the dogs have been going crazy so I'm worried he may be looking for a new toy....I just want to make it a little more difficult for him, though I dont think he is smart enough to start it....

A 24-volt siren with an arming switch and a "refrigerator door" type push-button switch in the hot wire should do the trick. When you park it, the closed door will keep the circuit open. When the kid opens the door, the circuit is closed and the siren goes off. You might want to have the track coach stop by once in a whild. I'm sure he'll find a likely candidate for the cross-country team!

Mac,

When the electrical system is disconnected and padlocked, it is impossible to start the truck.

There is a door lock that can be adapted to work on the M37.

W_A_Watson_II wrote:Bruce, Yes, One on the Engine Battery, and one on the accessory Battery.

The two 12-volt batteries in an M37 are connected in series to provide the requisite 24 volts. In the normal configuration, there's no such thing as an "accessory battery."

m-37Bruce wrote:So, let me get this straight, you would need one for each battery?

That depends on how your batteries are rigged and what you want to accomplish. In most applications 1 switch will do it - just depends on where you put it in the circuit.

For example, I rewired my truck so that the lights and horn are switched by the on/off switch (not the way it was originally done). I've had too many antiques kill batteries by leaving lights on (my bad) or having the horn spontaneously go off in wicked cold weather.

Longhunter7 wrote:Mac,

When the electrical system is disconnected and padlocked, it is impossible to start the truck.

There is a door lock that can be adapted to work on the M37.

Where can I find the door lock? or a photo and price?

Used to have one, it is the same style/type that fits the Duece/Duece & 1/2.
Someone else is bound to have the correct info? I like Lifers idea of connecting the a door button to the siren......... a track & field star in the making.
I almost forgot, Trident Auto Tech in So Cal, they have lots of M-Series goodies!

Lifer,

In my case, I've re-powered to a V-8. So mine has two batteries, one 12 volt to start and run the truck, and a second, that is there to run the off-road lights and winch, etc... or to allow me to self jump start. And yes I have a battery isolator in the circuit, so the alternator charges both at the sdame time, but one system won't run both batteries down.

Ahhh! I see! Lemmee see, now. What was that my first sergeant used to say about "assuming?"