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I swore the turn signals worked! Now, nothing but a solid indicator light in positions D and E. All other lights work as expected.
I have not moved anything under the dash. Just finishing up in the battery box.

Suggestions?
The learning curve is steep on this old truck!

Check the flasher, if you have an indicator light on at the t/s switch you must have current to the switch. Are the turn lights on too?

Joe

I wired a fused line from my 24V battery set up to a steering wheel shaft mounted flasher set up, works fine. Not connected to the big military dash multi-switch. I wasn't about to try to figure out the military switching set up. Hal

j mccormick wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 4:26 am Check the flasher, if you have an indicator light on at the t/s switch you must have current to the switch. Are the turn lights on too?

Haven't had the time to dive into this yet. Never looked at the actual lights. Will do as part of troubleshooting.

NAM VET wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 4:49 am I wired a fused line from my 24V battery set up to a steering wheel shaft mounted flasher set up, works fine. Not connected to the big military dash multi-switch. I wasn't about to try to figure out the military switching set up. Hal

This would be a great final bypass option. I just want to be sure I'm doing the correct switch functions.
1- Troubleshoot and fix
2- Bypass to fix later...

I had mystery problems with my headlights which turned out to be a bad socket in the receptacle that plugs in to the back of the light switch.

It was tough to find. Applying 24V power to the pin socket which feeds the headlights turned them on, so I knew the wiring was OK form there to the headlights. I then tried applying power using a jumper to the input pin the switch and switched it to various positions. All of the expected pins powered up in the appropriate positions, indicating that the switch was OK. I was stumped. I reattached the connector and everything worked... for about a week. Disconnected and repeated the tests above. Everything checked out OK again. THe only thing left was that the connector itself was bad. I fixed it by disassembling the connector and swapping an unused pin socket for the headlight socket (I also crimped the headlight socket just a bit to give it a snugger fit on the pin. Reassembled with dielectric grease to protect the connections from corrosion and it's been working ever since. NOTE: disassembling and reassembling the connector was a bit of a pain in the butt. It would have been easlier to do out of the truck, but I did not want to disconnect everything.

When my blinkers stopped working (indicator light stayed on solid, if I recall correctly), I just disconnected the (NOS) flasher unit and reconnected it. Everything started working, so I disconnected again, added dielectric grease to the pins and reconnected. It too has been working ever since.

I suspect some of the problems were from my leaking windshield, which has since been (mostly) fixed.

Not sure if any of this will help, but I've attached two light switch related documents I found over the years. I also have a write up someone did on "rebuilding an M-series light switch", but the file is too large to upload here. (If anyone wants a copy, send me a PM and I'll email thge 1.3 MB file to you.) My conclusion after reading through it was that if I ever get to the point of needing to rebuild the switch, I will probably just buy a replacement instead.

All the gold anodized connectors used on 24V wiring systems were made by Bendix, not Cannon.

PoW wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 4:28 pm All the gold anodized connectors used on 24V wiring systems were made by Bendix, not Cannon.

I just assumed people are using it generically, like calling a tissue "Kleenex" even though it's not a Kleenex brand?