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I pulled my parking brake drum because it was weeping oil.

I have tried to drive that seal out, but it appears to be installed with a black looking gasket sealer, and the seal will not move. All I am doing is deforming the seal lip with the punch. Does the casting need to be warmed with a torch to break the sealant free?

Any and all suggestions welcome. I was expecting to have this apart and together tonight, and guessing that is not going to happen.

not what you want to hear from me, but not long ago I removed my grimy transfer case, cleaned it well, and took it up to Charles Talbert, who is about a hundred miles north of me. Mine was leaking enough that I had to add fluid about every hundred miles. He re-did bearings, races, seals, and put in two new stainless shifter rods. Plus new drum. Plus found one chipped tooth, so replaced it from one he had in his ship. Was $3300. Of courses, it works perfectly and does't drip at all. He used Viton seals, as my early gear driven one gets really hot on long summer drives, I put in a temp gage in the fill port, mine will get to 230 degrees.

I talked with Hime about replacing my leaky seals before I decided I wasn't up to it. He gave me suggestions, plus would have sent me the parts. I suggest you call and ask him, and review the prior posts on this forum from others, plus there are some with pictures of the process. Wish you luck, and let us know how this turns out for you.

by the way not long ago I replaced the seals on my PTO, and removing them was a destructive and difficult job. I wasn't sure I was going to be able to get them out. Came out in pieces. halt

Charles does amazing work.. Interesting that you see 230* in the T/C on long rides. I wonder where all that friction is coming from?

They are just pushed in. A MAPP torch should work good for melting sealant.

Problem solved => the heat of a propane torch was enough to loosen that gasket maker or sealant that was used.

greeno wrote: ↑Sun Jul 03, 2022 11:10 am They are just pushed in. A MAPP torch should work good for melting sealant.

I've never used any type of sealant, or gasket dressing on seals that are driven in. It makes removing them a bit of a chore, and I am wondering if such "dressing' is necessary?

Probably not. I’m sure bubba sat there with a new seal and said “I ain’t never doing this job again” and decided some rtv or whatever was popular in the 70s was appropriate.

glad you got your seal out. On a hot, 100 degree South Carolina drive, after an hour or so, my first generation TC, with the gears, does get that hot. I have heard the later chain TC's don't get so hot. I use the spec 50 wt long life Amsoil gear oil that Charles Talbert recommends, and of course, he put in the temp resistant Viton seals. No leaks.

I rarely drive hundreds of miles at a time, and if I did much of that, he has a oil cooler system for the TC. hal

SKF technical support was able to direct-cross the M37 Transfer Case companion flange seal (four used, one seal used with each transfer case companion flange) using the G741 parts book Chrysler number 927367 (SEAL, Chrysler part number CC-927367, Ordnance part number 7705744 in the M37 G741 parts book) to their seal SKF 21213 (Double-Lip Seal, direct cross). They also listed an alternate SKF Single-lip seal as their part number SKF 21210.

PS The M37 maintenance manual(s) say when installing a companion flange oil seal to "coat the outer surface of oil seals with plastic-type gasket cement and position seals in bearing retainers with lip of leather toward bearing. Install oil seals in retainers with a companion flange and plastic hammer."

Obviously, the newer SKF seals do not use leather in the seals. But this instruction may explain why there is a sealant on the outer edge of the companion flange seal body on some trucks.

vargaspj wrote: ↑Fri Nov 04, 2022 4:38 pm
PS The M37 maintenance manual(s) say when installing a companion flange oil seal to "coat the outer surface of oil seals with plastic-type gasket cement and position seals in bearing retainers with lip of leather toward bearing. Install oil seals in retainers with a companion flange and plastic hammer."

But this instruction may explain why there is a sealant on the outer edge of the companion flange seal body on some trucks.

Yes I got the feeling this TC was rebuilt at some point. It looks like it was rebuilt or maybe resealed and then hosed with OD green.. unfortunately my shifter shaft seals are leaking now.. so I will have to pull the whole thing next summer and have a go at replacing those..

You can do it whilst still in the truck.

Drill a small hole in the seal, and use a sheet metal screw and a small crowbar to pull it out.

Clean up the recess with a rag on a screwdriver tip.

Now would be a good time to crocus cloth the shafts, to remove any rough rust.

Use a 6" piece of 3/4" pipe to drive the new seals in. Make sure to put them in the right direction.

PoW