Win some, lose some....
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 12:17 pm
First the good. Over the past week, here in UpState SC, after finding my brake pedal seeming to require more pedal travel to hit the "rock hard" pedal, I crawled under my M37, and adjusted the clevis at the pedal, and found I did not have enough threads to move the pedal back up. Then read here and in the TM that First adjust the brake shoes, then the clevis, with a 1/2 inch of free travel before the master cylinder begins to push brake fluid.
So removed the front wheels, and spent several hours truing to get the front leading shoes to be just right, and not drag. I just couldn't get it perfect, due to my drums and no doubt pads having wear. The Anchor bolts and the cam's are incredibly sensitive. Basically, you put a wrench on the cam, think about what you want to do, and just your mind's telepathy is enough to turn the cam. Same with the anchor bolts. Touchy doesn't describe it. In the end, I just turned the cams on all four wheels just a tiny tiny bit, and it seemed to bring my pedal up fine, and with turning the drums, and inspecting the clearance via the small window in the drum, all is good. I can hear some brake shoe sounds, but can't feel any drag on any drum. So set the clevis correctly, and just went out for a drive, no pulling to either side on braking, and my truck will begin to slowly roll on a very slight incline. Used my infrared gun and found that the drums hardly heat up at all. So pedal where it should be, and pedal is hard as a stone when the brake shoes do their thing.
Now the "bad." I called Vintage tire for another NDT per my other post. My other tires are STA, and he said they are discontinued, but he had a 900-16 via Firestone. But no tubes, and had no idea when or if tubes would be someday available. I have a flap, because several months ago, when I ordered a NDT, and tube and flap, one was stuck down in the tire. When I called them, he just said someone forgot to take it out, and just keep it.
So, ordered the Firestone, and will put it on a front rim, so any slight difference in rolling circumference won't be problem, esp since I have lock out hubs. Then called Coker for a tube, he had ONE tube left, and that is on its way to me. So I now have a new NDT, flap, and tube.
Now, the cost. The tire and tube are much more than when I ordered them several months ago. Tire is $400, shjpping another $90, the tube is about $85. If I have my local truck shop dismount and remount it all, that is about another $150. I am going to have them remove the old NDT, and mount the new one after cleaning up my rim.
So to have a single NDT replaced, and I have the flap already, it is about $700+ for one tire! If one can even locate the tire, tube and flap.
So for those partway into their own restoration, and beginning to think about their tires, if you just go with standard truck tires on all four corners I think one could save as much as $600 or more, and have a more suitable longer lasting tire.
Just my experience this afternoon. Hal
So removed the front wheels, and spent several hours truing to get the front leading shoes to be just right, and not drag. I just couldn't get it perfect, due to my drums and no doubt pads having wear. The Anchor bolts and the cam's are incredibly sensitive. Basically, you put a wrench on the cam, think about what you want to do, and just your mind's telepathy is enough to turn the cam. Same with the anchor bolts. Touchy doesn't describe it. In the end, I just turned the cams on all four wheels just a tiny tiny bit, and it seemed to bring my pedal up fine, and with turning the drums, and inspecting the clearance via the small window in the drum, all is good. I can hear some brake shoe sounds, but can't feel any drag on any drum. So set the clevis correctly, and just went out for a drive, no pulling to either side on braking, and my truck will begin to slowly roll on a very slight incline. Used my infrared gun and found that the drums hardly heat up at all. So pedal where it should be, and pedal is hard as a stone when the brake shoes do their thing.
Now the "bad." I called Vintage tire for another NDT per my other post. My other tires are STA, and he said they are discontinued, but he had a 900-16 via Firestone. But no tubes, and had no idea when or if tubes would be someday available. I have a flap, because several months ago, when I ordered a NDT, and tube and flap, one was stuck down in the tire. When I called them, he just said someone forgot to take it out, and just keep it.
So, ordered the Firestone, and will put it on a front rim, so any slight difference in rolling circumference won't be problem, esp since I have lock out hubs. Then called Coker for a tube, he had ONE tube left, and that is on its way to me. So I now have a new NDT, flap, and tube.
Now, the cost. The tire and tube are much more than when I ordered them several months ago. Tire is $400, shjpping another $90, the tube is about $85. If I have my local truck shop dismount and remount it all, that is about another $150. I am going to have them remove the old NDT, and mount the new one after cleaning up my rim.
So to have a single NDT replaced, and I have the flap already, it is about $700+ for one tire! If one can even locate the tire, tube and flap.
So for those partway into their own restoration, and beginning to think about their tires, if you just go with standard truck tires on all four corners I think one could save as much as $600 or more, and have a more suitable longer lasting tire.
Just my experience this afternoon. Hal
