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When we installed the head after doing some valve work, I pretty much followed the TM except I used copper spray on the mtal side of the head gasket
and Permatex anti-seize on the threads of the head bolts then torqued to 70 ft lbs.
We have not seen any coolant leaks after running it.

After reading some old pots here and on other sites, there is lot of talk about putting sealant on the thread that go into the water jacket.
Also I came across several posts that were negative about using anti-seize on head bolts.

Is sealant critical? I could pull each bolt, one at time, place sealant on it and put it back if needed I guess. I'm wondering if the anti-seize
acted as a sealant.

Thanks

I don't know if you will "see" any coolant leak, it may go right into the cylinder. As for removing and replacing bolts one at a time, that might hinder proper head torque, or perhaps even warp it. You will probably continue to worry about this, so perhaps best just to re-do the head with a fresh gasket, and use a non-hardening sealant, so you can maintain the seal with your re-torquing of the head bolts. But you are soon to get more experienced suggestions than anything I might suggest. By the way, I used studs not bolts, so that the threads into the block are not worn more with each use. The studs I got, I think from VPW, have Allen socket heads to allow them to be screwed into the head. Be sure to allow for the different above block length for the oil filter mount bracket. When you re-torque the head after running your motor, you won't have to rely on any effect of block anti-seize or sealant giving incorrect torque settings. Plus, I think it helps to align the head gasket. Maybe I have a pic of my stud system. HC
[url=https://postimg.cc/y3sC6Yjj][img]h ... .jpg[/img][/url]

dang! that looks pretty!

I'll say the same thing, looks pretty dang good!