g741.org

Guys;

Went to remove my wheel bearings to repack and noticed I bought the wrong socket. The guy sold me a 6 point instead of an 8 point. I didn't even realize this until going to use the thing and it didn't fit. Anyway thats not my problem. I found an 8 point socket but its 3/4 inch drive. Now I was told to torque the nuts to 100 ft lbs when redoing things however my torque wrench is 1/2 in drive and the socket is 3/4. I don't have a 3/4 to 1/2 in reducer so how am I going to check the torque without being able to use a torque wrench on the nuts? Where can I buy a reducer?

NAPA should have one. Your local Snap-On dealer will definately have one. If you have a good Sears store in your area, Craftsman also makes one. Just look wherever quality tools are sold and you'll find what you need.

I found a site called SJ discount tools that had the socket and the adapter so I placed an order. I wonder if NAPA wil ltake back the 6 pt socket without a receipt? I have no use for the thing now. I may just keep it though. Don't know how many times I've wound up doing a job in the future and remembered having a tool that I bought and didn't need at the time but now I do, etc.

If you're a regular customer at the NAPA store where you bought it and the counter guys know you, you can probably get a refund without a receipt. Like you said, though, you never know when it might come in handy on some future job.

Not really a regular at this particular NAPA. Its one of my second choice NAPA stores as the clerks there are about an inch above brain dead. I happened to be in the area the night I ordered the socket and......I'll probably just keep the one I have. If someone needs it down the line or I need it later so be it.

Nick, I would have let you borrow my socket have fun with that bearing job.
As for NAPA, I have one of the last old-timer NAPA'S near me. It smells like an old auto parts store, old cardboard, wood floors, machine oil, cigarettes, ect. After trying several parts stores to get fittings to adapt my dual circuit MC to the 1/4" lines, I discovered this place. The other stores looked at me like I asked for a time machine. One bozo asked me "When you say 4 way drums, what do you mean?"
The guy at this NAPA looked at my MC, walked to the Weatherhead bin, and came back with the fittings in 30 seconds. They even had a new pressure activated brake light switch in stock. He actually pulled out a paper catalog to find it

That's the kind of NAPA store we have...except that the old building with its (unfinished) wooden floor was replaced by a new "Butler" building about 15 years ago. The stock and the manager remained the same, fortunately.

The NAPA store I normally go to is kind of like what Hinsing describes, only not quite so old. There is one guy there I try to go to most as he knows his stuff. There is also a dump near work called Triple R truck parts that's exactly as Hing desribes, old dirty, stinky building with a bunch of old farts all smoking behind the counter. They also know their stuff and I have bought alot of items from them. Trouble with that place is I have to hit it on my lunch break and they are not the best for prompt service, and are sometimes abrupt and rude with customers so I limit my spending with them.

Nick: You can always do it the old fashioned way, with a chisel or punch to tighten the nut. Tighten it until you feel some drag on the bearing and then loosen it a little bit so it turns free and you will be good to go. Not high tech, but it works and the little ding on the inner nut will not bother anything.

Sid;

Yes, I've heard of that method, however I'm not in a hurry so I will just wait for the socket I ordered. No big thing.

g741 wrote:Nick: You can always do it the old fashioned way, with a chisel or punch to tighten the nut. Tighten it until you feel some drag on the bearing and then loosen it a little bit so it turns free and you will be good to go. Not high tech, but it works and the little ding on the inner nut will not bother anything.

I have the oem socket, no chance of using the torque wrench with it, I've used this same adjusting procedure you describe and it's been 10 years and about 80000 troublefree miles just in the last 4 years.
Anyway, 100lbs/ft seems a lot to me for the bearings.

By the way, When should I check the bearings and repack them with grease? at a certain mileage, time period?
Who has a hi-mileage M-37 that can share his maintenance plan and intervals?

I do it with a hammer and chisel as described. I pack mine yearly but that's only about 6K miles tops for me. They are always fine when I check them. Thanks again for your help down there!

Juan wrote:

g741 wrote:Nick: You can always do it the old fashioned way, with a chisel or punch to tighten the nut. Tighten it until you feel some drag on the bearing and then loosen it a little bit so it turns free and you will be good to go. Not high tech, but it works and the little ding on the inner nut will not bother anything.

I have the oem socket, no chance of using the torque wrench with it, I've used this same adjusting procedure you describe and it's been 10 years and about 80000 troublefree miles just in the last 4 years.
Anyway, 100lbs/ft seems a lot to me for the bearings.

By the way, When should I check the bearings and repack them with grease? at a certain mileage, time period?
Who has a hi-mileage M-37 that can share his maintenance plan and intervals?

You don't have the whole procedure, the 100FT.LB. rule is for the initial tightening while turning the hub to seat the bearings. Once the assembly holds 100 ft. lbs. off torque after spinning, you then back off the nut 1/6th of a turn which leaves the bearings properly preloaded. Then install the lock & outer nut also torqueing it to 100. The assembly is then properly adjusted & locked down ready for service.

that's what I did, but without torque figures. I've tigthened it until the wheel barely turns, didn't know it was for seating bearing, then back off until it spins. Then I've tightened the lock nut with a bar.

Bryan, Yearly? Then I guessed I've missed the last 6 inspections.

Now I have something to do on this weekend.

I now have a question based on the torque posts. Is the outer nut torqued to 100ftlbs, then backed off as well, or left at 100?