g741.org

I have searched this and other forums, and Utube, to see what is involved in doing this. There are no simple instructions I can find. I have new races, bearings, and seals/gaskets, and the four wheel shop I had recently replace my rear dif seal said they could do it for me. I keep checking the hubs to see if they get hot, and I don't hear any growling or such from the front, but my guess is that it was some decades ago when the bearing grease was last replaced. So, if I don't need new races/bearings, is there more to it than just pulling the wheel drum, which I have done easily, and unbolting some cap, and pulling the bearings out for fresh grease? I don't think I will do attempt this myself, but just want to have available whatever tools and parts I need to have it done. I have a parts manual coming in a few days to help with this, and have all the other TM's too.

So my question to this forum is this: is a "simple" front wheel bearing re-pack an extremely complex or relatively simple task for me or the shop?

and wishing the very best for all of you on this Thanksgiving occasion.

NV

Repack is easy. Bearing replacement is a 'bit' more complicated.

good, thanks for the reassurance. Think I will give it a try.

NV

Just like any floating axle. Remove wheel and brake drum. Mark drum location and orientation. Use special socket for locknuts. Seals and bearings are the same as any other and need no special procedures. Just correct installers. Noe, the knuckle. THAT is a horse of a few different colors!

best for me to let the shop guys do it I think. I learned long ago that attempting some unfamiliar-to-me procedure can have complicating results.

thanks,

NV

If that steering knuckle has not been serviced for many years then it should be done and that is no fun job. Make sure you get all the seals for the guys at the shop to do that job since they are probably not going to find them at the parts store.

I just went through this on my Carryall. First thing you need to watch for is oil or grease in your steering knuckle. If there's oil in there, you'll need to replace the seal inside the axle tube. This is why I started my project. That and the brakes failed.

Don't bother taking the drums off the hubs. Down that path madness lie. At least you will need a giant 8 point socket to do the spindle nuts.

To get at the inner bearing your going to have to get the inner seal out. Typically this mashes the seal. A press would be nice for getting the inner races out. And for replacing them. I used the local auto shop / parts house for this.

Once everything is packed, MSeriesRebuild has a really nice writeup on this forum how to set preloads etc. Easy to follow, foolproof. I used it on mine.

On mine it started with oil in the steering knuckle. But then I found all the wheel bearings were shot all the way around. Trunion bearings (steering) were also wiped out. On and on. Ended up doing everyhing from the u-Joints to the tires except the differentials.

The picutres start here: https://www.eskimo.com/~jimlee/Home/Car ... _Home.html


Good luck! It can be done by Bozos like me. You just need lots of pullers, presses, drifts, sockets.. Then, no problem.

-jim lee

My drums come off very easily. I recommend removal as it is a lot easier to work on the hub without it being heavy, dirty, and in the way. I'm an old guy. Reduced effort is important.

I came across an entire disc brake setup at a very good price so when ready to tackle that job all the drum stuff is getting sold off and disc stuff is going on. MUCH lighter and easier to deal with. Plus I am going with a dual circuit brake system. No it is all not original but safety trumps original in this case since I plan on driving the truck fairly often.

With all G741 hubs, wither drum or disc brake, don't use any black hi-temp grease.

It has metal soaps in it such as molybdenum or lithium, and when mixed with gear oil (yes, those seals will always let a little in) it will turn those greases to hard gunk.

Long-fiber brown grease is the only thing to use, and the bearings will never get so hot as to ruin it.

PoW

I have learned a whole lot about these old trucks from this forum. All good a very much appreciated advice from y'all.

thanks, NV

Give me a call, I can help a lot right over the phone. Of course I know nothing concerning techniques the shop you are using have in mind, so not passing judgment on them. I have seen some real screw ups done by such service outlets of this type who really don't have a clue about M Series trucks, yet claim to have expertise in all areas. It isn't necessary to remove the drums from the hubs, removing drums / hubs as a unit is typically much easier. It is also best to go through with knuckle maintenance as well as rebuilding the inner axle seal mating surfaces and installing current production inner axle seals. These procedures done right will offer years of good service. Running lock-out hubs saves a TREMENDOUS amount of wear on these components. A single properly performed front axle service using the correct components, lubricants, and installation expertise along with lock-out hubs can literally last a lifetime, and is not that hard to do with proper guidance.

I remove the drums because I'm old and getting frail. It just makes it a ton easier to press in and out the bearing cups alone when all I am dealing with is the hub. I do make damn sure to mark the location and orientation for the drum to the hub. (And my drum screws come out nice and easy so it isn't a big chore) If you are young and strong or have helpers, by all means, save the steps.

just me wrote:I remove the drums because I'm old and getting frail. It just makes it a ton easier to press in and out the bearing cups alone when all I am dealing with is the hub. I do make damn sure to mark the location and orientation for the drum to the hub. (And my drum screws come out nice and easy so it isn't a big chore) If you are young and strong or have helpers, by all means, save the steps.

Whatever works for you. Me young, not really at age 65. Strong, maybe a little above average. No need to get too concerned about drum / hub orientation as they will only mount 1 way. Holes are not equally spaced.

I am replacing my REAR wheel bearings and seals (and brake shoes). The rear inner seal had failed and everything was bathed in gear oil. So...I am hoping somebody has a bearing and race part number or can confirm what I have gleaned in my online research. I also would like to know if a modern available grease that would be tolerant of ‘some’ oil contamination.

Here is the REAR bearing info I have (caution: it may be wrong!)
National 2984 - rear outer bearing
National 2924 - rear outer race
SKF SET407 - rear inner bearing and race

What would be the best grease (that can be found at Autozone, O’Reillys, Napa) and toleratesome oil contamination?

Are there torque settings for the hub studs?

Thanks!