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I use Postimage for pictures. When you click on your saved picture then click on 'share" and then on "Hotlink for forums". It will say "copied" and then you just post in the forum like you used to do with photosucksit.

Picture should work now!

rickf wrote:I use Postimage for pictures. When you click on your saved picture then click on 'share" and then on "Hotlink for forums". It will say "copied" and then you just post in the forum like you used to do with photosucksit.

Hey Rick,
Are you using your fone or your computer for the "share and Hotlink for forums"? I have one of those inquiring minds.

Computer, I am an old guy remember? I use my phone for phone calls.

Doh! I forgot, it did sound something like my fone up load thingy. Hey to Lady Diane.

This is an update on my last post.
I pulled the distributor and the oil pump and reset everything so that the rotor now pointed to 7 o'clock with #1 piston at top dead center (TDC).
Tried to start truck. Nothing.
Installed new coil. Tried to start truck. Nothing.
Pulled the distributor and oil pump and reset everything again. Tried to start truck. This time I got an encouraging sputter, then nothing.
Checked for spark. On each of the plugs, I installed the timing adapter (from MWM) and cranked the engine. From observing the timing light, the sequence would be: weak spark, no spark, weak spark, and just to make things interesting, on a couple of cylinders, strong spark, then nothing for as long as I kept cranking the engine.
I changed the condenser (capacitor), but that made no difference.
My next step is to install a new distributor cap, and then, new plugs. I am doing all this one step at a time to try to figure out why I am not getting a strong, consistent spark - hence, no start.
Your thoughts and suggestions, as always most welcome!

I would put a dwell meter on it and crank. If it isn't rock steady, I would be looking at my points hanging up.

Thanks just me.
I will try that tomorrow .

working on a guys 37 last week one day we had spark and no spark the next. after inspecting the cap we noted contact only being made at the tips. after measuring a stock rotor and the "new" rotor we found about .030 difference in height. reinstalled stock rotor and loosened the three retaining screws lowering the cap. we then had spark.

Good news!
After checking the dwell as suggested by justme, I installed new points, and following RMS's suggestion, I loosened the screws on the cap. I also installed a different rotor since my new one did not seem to fit as well as the previous one, and IT STARTED!
Now the not so good news:
As soon as it started, I opened the garage door to fully deploy the exhaust hose I had fitted, but by the time I got to the back of the truck, I could not see for the thick cloud of grayish black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The motor was running at slightly above idle and sounding good, but the smoke obscurred everything!
After a minute or two, the motor gradually slowe and stalled out. I decided to let the smoke clear before doing anything else.
Here is what I saw:

Part 2 of post. and finally, So, no wonder I was getting thick grey/black smoke I was seemingly burning oil as well as gas!
I checked the oil to see how much I had left and the dipstick showed full but it was oil heavily diluted with gas!

The last time the truck actually ran (poorly) before today was in May when I put it into the garage to start on the ignition problem. At the time it was running rough with a sooty exhaust, but nothing like what it was doing today.
Now I know that I am facing a more substantial repair than I was before but can anyone tell me what just happened???
If this was a head gasket, my understanding is that I would expect to see white smoke. It appears to me that the oil was forced out through any possible orifice under pressure and that gas is somehow getting into the oil, increasing volume and therefore pressure.
Can anyone shed any light on what I am facing now and what the next steps might be?

That's a lot of crankcase pressure to do that. Cracked block? I would suggest a leak down test to see what is going on. And replace the fuel pump diaphragms with modern materials to stop the intrusion of fuel into the crankcase.

thanks justme
The fuel pump is a rebuilt unit from VPW bought last year and it has about 30 miles on it. Could it still be defective?
What is a leak down test (and how do you do it)?
Bernie

Fuel in the oil is nearly always caused by a failed fuel pump diaphragm.

I would suggest reading this for the leak down test. Very valuable diagnostic tool. Do all 6 cylinders unless you run into a bad problem on the first ones.

http://www.gregsengine.com/cylinder-lea ... sting.html

I run electric pumps so in my experience all the gas in the oil can be attributed to flooding. the Douglas valve port is at the lowest point of the intake. gas will flow from the manifold into the crank via the Douglas valve (PCV). with every vacuum pulse (with the choke closed) the carb will pump .25 oz of gas in to the manifold. high float....

the grey smoke was from the flooded manifold washing the coke out of the combustion chamber and exhaust

the oil pumping out of your block is easily explained..... if the fording valve got closed