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I have read countless posts on this. My motor is being tanked today, should be coming back to me soon. Appropriate parts on order. My plan is to install the oil pump and military distributor with the engine on my stand, and before i put the cylinder head on.

Anyone see any problems with this plan: I know #1 and #6 are both TDC at the same time. So, watching my valves to see they are full closed on #1, (that cylinder about to start the power downward stroke) use my dial indicator with a magnetic base and set the piston at #1 precisely TDC, (after of course setting the valves and correctly lining up the cam/crank gears), the put the oil pump in per the instructions on how to line it up, turn one gear.... and then install distributor with rotor pointing to 7 pm. I will try to look down and see pump off-set groove is where it should be to mesh with the distributor tang. My military plug wires are tagged to where they go back to on the cap.

My big pulley has an engraved timing mark, I will mark it precisely at TDC per above, for more accurate timing, will try 4 degrees Before TDC. I know not to turn the crankshaft backwards if I pass TDC, just go around two crank rotations to sneak up on TDC.

By the way, what is the best way to hold the crank when I go to tighten the crank claw nut on the end? A few other questions: I have new crank bolts and nuts coming, and the machinist has kept the main and rod bearings all together, and I know the rods are offset, and the oil hole, etc. I know how to check for crank end-play, and will use grade 8 lock washers on these parts. But should I also use one of the Locktite fluids on these fasteners?

He showed me yesterday why my motor had stock pistons and rings (he will take it out .030 from stock for me): my motor has six sleeves, but he said they all look tight and unmoved. Since the most recent owner had owned my truck for 20 years, and told me the motor had been "rebuilt" before he got it, I suspect the Missouri National Guard did the rebuild, or perhaps a service that had it before it went surplus. The lower flywheel pan had yellow under the OD now on it.

Sprayed another coat of the semi-gloss Gillespie on the detached metal of the front of the truck, plus all the bed hardware I had previously removed. Came out looking great. The Xylene thinned Gillespie paint sprays well, and dries just slowly enough to let me spray on a good "wet" coat. When I am out in the driveway, amazing how many guys come up to ask about my truck. Bring their elderly fathers to see again what the old chaps once drove. The two guys replacing an AC unit next door just came over, and one told me when he was a teen, his uncle had one, and they would put it in low, no driver, and walk along side throwing hay bales into the bed.

The machine shop owner has been shooting many pictures as he comes to a part to come off, and will put them on a flash drive for me, to help in my rebuild.

Now for several days of rain here in UpState SC. Lots of small in-garage things I can do.

all the best, guys.

a pic..... This is the small market a short walk from my IV Corps compound, I or our hootch-maid-cook would by our food here daily, we did not have any refridgeration, so every meat was fresh. Sort of, at least......
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Trucks from this period used on the farm, the low gear was called "Granny Gear", as long ad the steering was tight, it would go in a straight line, till it hit a bump or the contour changed. Gillespie Coatings, don't get me started on them ... I love it, the most forgiving coating around, I enjoyed it every time I shot it, still have my bed walls and tailgate to reshoot. On your engine block, somewhere on the line where the oil pan and block meet you should find a small triangular tag and a larger rectangular plate. The rectangle will provide the boring specifics and triangle one will list date of overhaul and where it was performed, such as Letterkenny or Aberdeen and so on. I don't know enough about these features, but Carter aka; Gunrunner is a minor authority, I say that jokingly, as he's a dear friend to all of us in the M-37 Family. Did I ramble on to much?

The oil pump and distributor install plans you have developed will do just fine and the way I have held the crank from rotating is to install the bell housing then and flywheel and clutch then wedge the wheel from turning assuming the engine is not installed. Use an impact wrench and socket on the nut if they are available since that will minimize rotation.

All the US Ordnance done rebuilds will carry a data plate as Bruce commented, however I have seen several that although indicate a rebuild have no plate and I suspect these were done under contract between state guard maintenance shops and local contractors.