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I was searching around the site and got some hits on removing the rear bed cross member but they are all old and the pictures are gone.

On my truck the rear outside cross member just behind where the bed hinges is dented all along it and then really rusty near the drivers hold down bolt. If I blast that area I am sure it will be a bunch of holes.

So I need to replace that rear most cross member. The rest of the bed is not too bad.

Can someone explain what steps I need to do to get it out and put a new one in?

Sides off first?

First, you can get a new crossmember from Midwest Military, or Vintage Power Wagon(costs more). The MM part is brand new.
I'm not sure you can remove it without taking off the sides, or at least removing ehough bolts to allow you to get the "L" shaped steel parts that go into the crossmember and the side panels at the lower corners. In the pic, you can see the two big (1/2") holes at the outside end of the crossmember, that is the "L" shaped mounting point. It also goes up into the channel in the side panel. If yours has a lot of rust, the bolts will be a chore to remove- they have captive nuts that have a tendency to break loose.

More pics.

One more,

Okay so I was confused by the MWM web page it looks like there are two parts to it but John just has two laid out together for the picture. The part actually goes over the end frame member. (The manual is really poor about this.)

If I get one side off and the L shape bracket bolts loose can you slide the cross member out that side? Or does it have to come straight up? Alan

there are 2 large carrige bolts that attach the member to the frame, you will need to remove them. If you get one side clear, and all of the bolts removed, it should slide off .

Just got my replacement from Midwest today!

one more.

Here you go Sturm, with pix. The crossmember guidance and pix are at the bottom of the thread...
http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4152

It CAN be done!
Gary

How is the repro crossmember? Mine is bad shape and i bought used which s better but still needs some work.

Does the new fit well and look the same?

I just got it yesterday, but it looks great! All of the weld nuts are there and it looks exactly like the original(minus the dents and rust!).

06boblee wrote:I just got it yesterday, but it looks great! All of the weld nuts are there and it looks exactly like the original(minus the dents and rust!).

Good to know. Thanks for posting those photos.

Are you going to coat the inside with something to slow down any future rust?

Elwood wrote:

06boblee wrote:I just got it yesterday, but it looks great! All of the weld nuts are there and it looks exactly like the original(minus the dents and rust!).

Good to know. Thanks for posting those photos.

Are you going to coat the inside with something to slow down any future rust?

I am using Eastwood's internal frame coating, comes in a spray can with a long hose that has a small multi directional nozzle. It sprays everywhere! Comes in green too. I am going to coat and paint the new carriage bolts too, my original ones were about 1/8" thick when I took them out.

Thanks! This all has helped me and now just need to get the old sucker out and see where I am at.

I would suggest new carriage bolts for the rear crossmember. The new ones from Midwest are a little longer than the oem one but will work much better than trying to reuse the toothpick that is the old one!