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Any body know what the proper torque is for the wheel lugs?

If I don't take them to 175 or more, mine back off. I've seen 125 to 300 in various places. I use anti seize on mine so I can change them in the field if needed. I set my torque wrench to 180 and then 220 when I do mine.

The spec in TM9-8030 (Sec. 227(b)(3)) is 200 to 225 foot-pounds of torque on the wheel lug nuts. The nuts should be brought up to final torque in steps, e.g. first tighten all of them to 100 ft-lbs, then to 175, etc., and do them in a star pattern.

Anti-seize on wheel lugs or studs is generally considered to be a bad idea.

Hi Guys,

Just to head this one off at the pass.........here's the skinny on using anti-seize on lug nuts. Applying anti-seize to ONLY the threads on the stud, and not to the surface of the lug nut that contacts the rim, is ok to do. This will keep the stud and lug nut threads from rusting together and will make wheel changes much easier, especially if you're on the side of the road. But putting anti-seize (or letting it get there by mistake) on the surface of the lug nut that contacts the rim.......is a BIG MISTAKE. Most of the friction you're fighting when you tighten up the lug nuts is between the lug nut and the rim, not between the threads of the studs and the threads of the lug nut. If you mistakenly get anti-seize on the surface between the lug nut and the rim, and you apply the same torque as without anti-seize, you will stretch the stud and weaken it. The same goes for using oil, grease or any type of lubricant on the wheel studs when changing wheels.

Personally, I just hit the studs with a small line of oil from my oil can, wait a second for it to run around the stud, and then wipe almost all of it off with a rag. That's all the studs need to keep from rusting, unless you like to drive in lots of water. If you want to use anti-seize, just don't put a big wad of it on the stud and then screw the lug nut on.......that will cause the lug nut to push it down the stud but also bunch up on the face of the lug nut between it and the rim. Just put a small dab on outermost treads of the stud, work it around the stud with your finger, and wipe the rest off. The lug nut will drag it down into the threads and none will get on the face. I'm not explaining this for you guys who know what you're doing.......just for anyone who might want to try this for the first time. With anti-seize compound a little goes a long way......and don't get it on any of your wife's dish towels. Trust me on that.

So remember........a little anti-seize on threads is good, any amount of anti-seize on lug nut faces is bad. It's really that simple.

Later boys,
bob

I will never figure out how they ever sell a second can of anti-seize. You need so little on each fastener that even doing this stuff all week long, year in and out, I'm still on the can I bought in 1978. (A little truly does go a long way!)

Just.........that's funny. I'm still on the same can I bought as a teen-ager back in 1982. I think you buy another can because the outside of the first can gets coated with anti-seize from handling it, and then you get tired of touching it. And then with something like electrically conductive grease they sell it to you in a teeny-weeny tube that last for 2 applications and you have to go buy another. THAT should come in the container the anti-seize comes in!!

later,
bob

The fastener threads also impart friction to the torque rating, not just the contact face. Applying any type of lubricant to the threads will create more fastener stretch when torqued to the same amount. If the wheel nut torque is specified dry (the TM doesn't say, but torque specs are usually dry unless a lube is specifically called for), and you want to apply a lubricant even to just the threads, a lower torque rating than the 200 to 225 ft-lbs would be advisable.

After twisting off a few rusty lug nuts trying to remove rims for seasonal tire changes, I started greasing my threads. Then one day I had new tires mounted up at Tire Rack and they twisted off the first few studs that they tried to torque to the 83 foot pounds that Toyota spec'ed. The grease (waterproof axle type) reduced the thread friction to the point that the studs would snap off before reaching the correct torque. Now if I lube a stud, I use a thinner oil or penetrant type instead of the super tacky grease.