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I'm new here guys so bear with me. I have a 1953 m37 a rebuilt all original on the out side, but some changes on the inside. I went automatic with her and dropped in a 5.7 vortex. I also changed the 5.83 ring and pinion to the 4.89. I don't have a lot of experience with changing these things out so I had a hell of a time trying to get the preload. I'm still not confident with the results. The manual says to put 300 ft lbs on the yoke bolt (or companion flange nut), but when I do that it locks up so tight I can't even turn the yoke to check the backlash settings on the ring gear. I think I have about 150 ft lbs on it now and I don't know if that's going to fly or not. Anyone know if that 300 lbs has changed like other torque specs over the years. At 150s ish, I checked my backlash and patterns but I'm again not sure if I'm good. On the drive side it sits centered but at the inside of the ring, and on the coast side it sits centered on the outside of the ring. I have Hurd that's good because when its hooked up tension on the yoke pulls them both centered, but I do t know.

Another important question I would like to find out is can the rear unit be swapped with the front axle unit? Just unbolt flip the carrier around to the front and bolt in? Last question does anyone know a part number and or brand/ type of a power steering box that goes on the m37 and doesn't flip my creating backwards? Yes ...embarrassing but I did it. Went threw all the trouble to make brackets work and installed the box from a 98 silverodo, and now when I turn right, the wheels turn left. any help hear guys would be much appreciated.

Thank you, Mark

The 300 ft lbs is the torque for the pinion yoke nut.

To set the preload, you install the spacer between the double roller
Bearings, effectively isolating one bearing to get the preload
While rotating the yoke.

You want 10 to 15 inch Lbs.

If less than 10 inch lbs. the spacer is to thick.
If preload is over 15 inch Lbs. then spacer is to thin.

Once you have the correct spacer then you remove it and
Reinstall it in it's proper location.

Yes. There both the same Diff.
Can be placed front or rear.
Tom

Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I did, and achieved preload of 13 inch pounds, but when I put the spacer back where it goes I still run into that problem of 300 ft lbs being too tight. It locks the yoke up so tight it won't move at all. Its fine if I only go about 150 ft lbs but anymore its too much. Its pretty simple how everything goes in there so I can't imagine something in the way or wrong in there. Were talking about the same nut right. The one big one that holds the yoke on? Does that pattern sound about right on the ring? Drive...off set inside ring gear, coast.....off set a little to the outside , both with good pinion depth? Sorry its been hard to find anyone that knows anything about these trucks axles.

Mark

You probably have the Double bearing race installed backwards.
There is a etched "Y" on the double race and it needs to point
Toward the yoke.

Do you have the spline spacer installed right behind the yoke?

The depth is pre set. All you can do is adjust the back lash.
Don't forget the ring gear thrust pad.

Tom

Now you got me thinking because I remember looking to make sure I put it in right, but for some reason I think I had an issue where there wasn't a Y marking on this new bearing. The bearing looks and measures the same as the old one, and the numbers where the same but no Y. So if that guy is in there backwards that's normally what happens, it locks up too tight at 300?

The spline spacer is in there as well, and for the thrust pad. Well I haven't put it in yet . I figured I would do it last. If I have that double spacer in wrong and everything goes smooth, is there anything else that I may be missing? Any tricks, easy misses the book doesn't cover or is it pretty straight forward?

Yes, the Yoke will lock up if race is backwards.
There ground slightly off center.

The Y can be very faint and hard to see. Not necessarily a stamp. but an etching.
Have seen some with a symbol or dot also.

It's marked.

Tom

Don't current 4:89's require 150 ft-lbs not 300 ft-lbs of the OE 5:83's?

Nice to have you with us, Mark! You sure landed with a bang with such a differential project to start with-do not despair, the guys will square you away on any M37 issue, including your diff project.
I'm no expert on power steering but if you switched your lines would that reverse it? Also, I know for a fact that if you are still using the drag links and have room, flip the Pitman arm 180 degrees and that will solve your reversed steering.

Welcome to the best M37 forum anywhere! Let us know how you make out.
Gary

Flipping the lines won't help, it will just cause havoc by the power steering pump fighting the steering wheel input (and itself.)

180 on the pitman arm is a good idea, but it will make the geometry work funny and put a lot of stress on the idler arm joints.

That being said, i'm no expert on power steering either.

There are reversed boxes that do what you want, Billy just got one from snake river 4x4.

Great Intel guys thank you. I wish I would have got on this site much earlier. I'm going to have to brake down that diff once again it looks like. I looked very close for that Y on that double race, but now that you mention it, I think it did have a dot on there. Well the good news is now I know the problem, and it can be fixed. I'll have to get some pics up on this site soon. She turned out pretty good, I can't wait to she how she feels with all the up grades. I'll have to check out this snake river 4x4 for the power steering box. I'm sure they will squad me away. Thanks again guys.

Mark

here ya go, save you the trouble of looking for it

snake river power steering

Well unfortunitly I'm back with the same problem. I broke down the entire axle again and flipped the pinion double race and yet again when tightening the large nut on the yoke, it locks up completely. It won't turn at all with that much ft lbs on the companion flange nut. Does anyone have another idea what I am doing wrong here? This thing is driving me mad. Does it have to have 300 ft lbs on that nut?

something must be wrong. heres a wild guess but could the bearing at the gear end of the pinion shaft not be tall enough allowing the cage and needles to hit something as you tighten it up? do you have all the old bearings to make comparisons? I was looking at a cross section view and cant really see what would cause that issue. maybe just need more spacers?