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Does anyone know how to adjust the cowel vent so it will sit level when closed? I did not have a seal and just put one in and the vent will not close on the front .Nice and tight on the back. Are the screws that hold the vent hinge on, on oval slots or something? Thanks for any ideas.

If I recall when I had mine off, the bolts do sit in oval slots, so you may have some leeway for adjustment.

Where did you find the seal? I couldn't locate one so just put a polyurethane caulk in the place of the seal.

Where the vent attatches to the two arms comming from the firewall, those four holes are slotted as well as the holes the where the arm comming from the lever itself is bolted to the vent cover.Hope this all makes sense as I just replaced mine. Was'nt to bad and you can adjust so it sits down nice and tight. I got my seal from John at Midwest.

JR

We got our seal from John at MWM. What we found was the the hinge points had rusted solid on the control arms. You look at them and think they are solid rivets but they are actually a shoulder rivet and suppose to rotate. We removed the 4 bolts holding the control arm assembly to the cowl (also a good time to check your circuit breakers) and pulled the whole thing out for a good grinding/priming/lube. Lot easier to work on the bench then working upside down. Once you get all the pivot points working, you may find there are too many adjustments.

Alright I think I will try to loosen the 4 bolts on the ends of the vent. I noticed that the vent was bent a little across from left to right. So a little tweeking is also required. I think I would take it out but Not until I am ready to replace the wire harness as the old wires insulation just crumbles when flexed. Always more. I got the gasket as a stip of material from Vintage Power Wagons. It was long enough that I had to cut it to fit.
OH One more question I just discovered that there is a drain tube. Thats cool ! But where does it drain to? Is there a hole in the floor? or firewall? Sorry but it just doesn't rain much out here so water has not been a big deal for me

The drain tube goes through the firewall.

The firewall. OK thanks Charles. Next time it rains whenever that happens I will have a drain ready

MSeriesRebuild wrote:The drain tube goes through the firewall.

How far is this tube supposed to extend through the firewall? Mine only goes through about 4 or 5 inches, which would allow water to drip right on the engine. I may swap this out with a longer hose and have it drain to a spot where it hits the ground.

Mine drained to the rear spark plug recess...... I put a longer hose on and routed it so it drained to the ground. Beware of the exhaust.
Rick C

The original dumps on the rear of the engine head, good idea in my opinion to extend it so it drips on the ground. I always wondered why it was so short, no logical reason that I know of.

Who knows? Military "intelligence" at work? Budget cuts? Some contractor thinking that "as long as it goes through the firewall it's okay?" Take your choice. Any one of them could apply!

Yeah it appears to be a common heater or fuel hose, so replacing it should be a simple matter.

We wondered what the extra hole in the cowl was and Charles answered it so we installed a tube and strapped it to the speedo cable to drain behind the trans underneath. We bought 36" of flex tubing from Home Depot and a spring clamp - the heater hose was too bulky.

Knattrass that sounds like the best way to do it .

Maybe the original designer lived somewhere out here and figured a little water would help keep the engine cooler