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Looking at getting an M37 and would like to know what things I should be on the lookout for. I live in Colorado Springs and I found a couple in the Denver area on craigslist I thought I would look at. I can do my own work so I only farm out engine block work. My goal is a reliable everyday driver that wont see much highway use and I'm not expecting anything over 55 mph. What are the common upgrades that guys doing for reliability? Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Steve

Truck Found.

If you want 55 you'll likely need the 4.89 axle gears. I have slightly taller than stock tires on mine and even 40 is loud and fast for it. But the trucks are amazing for what they are.

Both of those look very nice to me! I'd be tempted to go with the cheaper one, depending on how much work u want to do restoring it and what u want it to be.

I can't see the drivers side of the more expensive one but the cheaper one has the holes right in front of the drivers door for the spare tire swing arm and also the release hole right behind the door.

I would want to drive each of them and see how loose feeling the shift arm is in the top of the transmission. Also try to see which engine seems to pull better or do a compression check if they will let you.

Alan

I hate it when people list their vehicles in one state when they are in another. The more expensive one is in Idaho, a nice 12 hours away.

How hard to find the spare tire swing arm and pieces?

Not necessary... The only M37 series produced in 1953 that had a door/cab mounted spare was the M43 ambulance. The cab pictured with the door/cab hinge mounting hardware was from a M37B1that was produced several years later.

This suggests that you should be extremely careful that paperwork is complete and correct for any truck you buy. Different states have different procedures. Be sure that you can register the truck.

Good luck.

Paul Cook 512.932.2377 txpwrwgn@centurylink.net http://www.texaspowerwagon.com

Thanks for that info.

I personally think the bed mount is better because the swing out mount sticks out too far for in the woods
and it makes it a pain to get in and out of the cab

anyone know what all the switches under the dash on the more expensive one are
they look like there stock. are they ?
never seen anything like that before

I live in Colorado Springs and I have a M37 if you want to look at one and see one in person and I can help look over some if you like.

Shoot me a PM , Jay

The cheaper truck is in fact a B1, as evidenced by the instrument cluster lights and the longer shifter. Finding the door mounted spare parts can be pricey, but they're out there. Why the seller calls it a 53 is anyone's guess, but most people don't know how to figure out when an M37 was made. The more expensive truck looks to have had a pretty easy life, judging by the shape of the bed floor. Nice truck.

Whichever you buy make sure the serial number is still in the driver's side frame rail and legible..........and the truck has a clear title.
If you post the frame serial numbers we can tell you the date of manufacture.

Have fun whichever you buy!

regards,
bob

tinmedic wrote:Thanks for that info.

Buying old cars and trucks..... You usually get what you pay for ! Rust is the eternal enemy.

Knowledge is power. If you can, take an M37 savvy person with you to look at the trucks. They will see things that you would probably miss. They'll probably know WHERE to look for the rust, missing parts, and have a general opinion on the overal condition.

Rust is extremely costly and time consuming to repair. Again... You get what you pay for.

Jerry

I know about rust. I've been living with old Jeeps forever.

Along with rust issues I'd pull the fill plugs to the diff's and check the condition of the R&P. They are a bit pricey to deal with.

Like I said id be happy to help you look them over in person. I enjoy finding and looking at them